After surfing the points and reefs all summer it is a huge head change adapting to the shifting, pulsing, thick walling beach breaks. You gotta be quicker to your feet, quicker in your head, no second guessing, no lazy takeoff fade to the shoulder stylee, just spin, up, drop, pump, fight, and get out alive. You are on it.
Actually love the beachies better because of the quantity of waves. The disparity of every wave, the quick decision making, the feel when the bottom drops out, the hunting for the right line. And some lefts finally. But maannn do I wish I could have some of those suuuper long point rides again. In warm water. Where you can do whatever you want on the wave, try different moves, fuck around, and have a nice no duck dive paddle back out. Seasons change. You gotta adapt.
Didn't check it this morn however.
2.4 @ 4 secs from 310