Been away from the ocean for far too long but it didn't sound like I missed much if anything. Strapping on a snowboard, piggin' out on holiday crap, and seeing different parts of the country. Get back into town and see an out of season south showin'. Stoked!
Hit the ol' fun summer spot and was the first out. About as fuckin' freezing as it gets around here, 39 air and low 50's water but no matter. Fun chest sets rollin' in which got me back in the fishy fun groove. Man I have missed those long ass point waves. Didn't feel too kooky on my ol' homemade either. Didn't miss the outta shape paddle back outs though.
It was so clear this morning, you could see another island out there past Catalina. I guess it was San Nicolas Island or San Clemente Island? Never seen it before. You can see a piece of the island in this snap I nicked from swellmagnet.
Looks like the south is already tapering off, hope you all got some surf somehow over the holidays!
2.7 @17secs from 185