Monday, March 23, 2009
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
"It was all private land then and fenced off, but Phillips tolerated us climbing through his barrier to surf and dive as long as we didn’t disturb his cattle and other livestock on the beach. No other surfers went there. His house was where the lifeguard building is now. We eventually changed the name to Sequit after the Arroyo Sequit canyon that meets the beach there." - Mr. Porter
Surfed four points. Two different homemades. And one spectacular South. Did my part by not blabbing, 'net nor cellphone. The super dawn going to low tide darkish blue mornings blew my mind. Solo. Alone. Pumpin'. Only shared with others once 6:45am came around. Consistent enough for waves and smiles all around. Beautiful sunsets burnin' smog. Obviously Monday was the best.
2.4 @ 11secs from 225
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Saturday, March 14, 2009
The Present: Cool 16mm film feel but a very clunky feel. Weird voiceovers that didn't go together or say anything new. Songs that would stop mid wave. Good waves with cool angles, but were sped up to nonsense. Nose cam of Rasta's mouth hanging open for 5 minutes. No thanks. This was not the movie I was so hyped on way back when this trailer came out. Shit back then, I was so stoked I even did a quick drunken late night awful remix of the trailer. I think I'd buy the trailer on DVD, but not the movie.
Five years to make this? Seems like a thrown together side project mishap that happened to come from a very talented guy.
2.8 @17secs from 170
Monday, March 09, 2009
Love board design. Love tryin' new things. Love tryin' old things. Love combinin' both. Love surfin' both.
Fun weekend testin' out my latest. It came out very close to "The Magic". Eerily close although I just found this pic.
Lookin' so forward to testin' it out on a couple nice Souths. Can't fuckin' wait.
4.1 @ 10secs from 310
Thursday, March 05, 2009
This morning was refreshing. Smaller. But more shapely.
Love to listen to KZSC Santa Cruz every Tues. and Thurs. from 10-noon for some irie roots tunes.
The riddims and ambience make me feel like I have been transported back to that amazing area. Just got out of a kelpy fun reef session and pick up a breakfast burrito on the way back to a buddy's homebuilt trippy little cabin in the SC woods. Burn a couple down on the porch with the KZSC reggae show blastin'. Tweakin' boards. Repairin' dings. Talkin' smack. Chillin'. Getting' pumped up for the afternoon glassy surf. Ahhh, the life.
3.1 @ 14secs from 310
Wednesday, March 04, 2009
Just good skankin' fun out there today. Head high and fresh. The 5-6 hour was hard offshore, the 6-7 hour had a slight bump to it, and the final 1/2 hour was blown out and junky. Felt like I surfed 3 different spots today. Cool to see the lifeguards going out in a dingy just as I was getting out. They looked stoked as they were blasting through the whitewash.
Love surfin' in the the rainy mist. Some good juice to the swell.
4.1 @ 17secs from 205