Sunday, August 06, 2006

Pumpin'

Big new raw swell at Point Pants.

3.4-3.6 @ 17 sec from 195.

Long windblown lulls. Longest ride to date at Point Pants was had. Flew thru the flats. Made sections. Barely hung on the whitewater drop. Energy. Rode it to between the 2nd and 1st house closest to the pink shack! Amazing. Paddled back out with 30 minutes of daylight left and sat and sat and sat, caught a little one, and sat and sat and had to embarassingly paddle back in. All the way in to the white houses because of the extreme full moon 6.1 high tide.

Tired and STOKED!!!

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