Friday, August 24, 2012
Monday, August 20, 2012
. Fuck you SUP's and all of your GO Pro cameras on your oars.
The McDonald's of surfing bloated obese easy quick gimmie gimmie now now surf culture.
"But that wave was just too good to not have on video"
"But but I was holding onto my board" (holding your leash is not the same)
"But it's not my fault if my truck can fit 4 longboards and we all want to surf together"
1.7 @ 14secs from 180
Friday, May 11, 2012
Monday, October 17, 2011
Friday, October 14, 2011
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Sunday, September 25, 2011
Monday, September 19, 2011
Friday, July 29, 2011
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Friday, July 08, 2011
Saturday, April 02, 2011
Monday, June 28, 2010
Monday, June 21, 2010
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Last coupla days are the first days of summer as far as I'm concerned. When I drive down this road at 4am it means Souths are flowin'! Only wish the road was still unpaved.
Added bonus of a phosphorus light show this morn in the dark. Trippy to see your hands and feet glowin' in the ocean. Caught more than a handful before the "regulars" showed up. And even then, not many of them did.
Yesterday was better.
2.5 @17secs from 185
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Thursday, January 28, 2010
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Fuckin' love this photo. Especially because name of it is "Cliff, '76 on a self-made Bonzer".
Fittin' since my self-made worked the best it has ever gone today. My feet are finally feelin' it. My weighting is finally realizin' it. Figurin' out a board is the greatest fun. Lovin' the 5'3" fatty. But really, the ocean did most all the work. I just held on.
My little spot finally is sandbarin' up. West is the best. Get here and I'll do the rest...
4.9 @ 15 from 285
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Saturday, December 12, 2009
Gray and Grey
Tuesday, December 08, 2009
Wednesday, December 02, 2009
Friday, November 20, 2009
Foggy, fishin' and burnin'.
Thick lovely fog. Spliffin' in the bushes beforehand. Rocksteady. Had the day off and needed to see how the other side of the homemade board felt.
Less shape but better when the tide got higher. Talked to a guy who paddled out later in the morn who said "good to see it is that time of year again, where I see you runnin' down to the ocean at 5am stoked".
3.8 @ 14secs from 305
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Good lumpy high tide lovin' this morn. Thought it would be a good day to dust off the dust from the last lam and try out my newly homemade fatty. She's 5'3" and red rice and beans definitely didn't miss her. About 21 3/4 wide.
A couple steep drops to closeouts.
A couple feet in the wrong spot.
A couple of kook outs.
Then a couple of speeeeed burners.
Love the board already. She's fast. Gonna have a real good time this season.
4.2 @ 12 seconds from 305
Wednesday, November 04, 2009
Friday, October 30, 2009
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Redondo Breakwall crowded even way back in '61.
Well that long weekend kinda sucked. Sure there were good waves but the kooky crowds were everywhere. You'd get a spot to yourself for a 1/2 hour only to see groups of 4 running down to your break. Forgot my wetsuit one day after a pretty long drive to a certain spot. That sucked. Basically a lot of driving for lumpy waves and frumpy crowds.
Highlight was one day I was at a jetty and some tool in a green wetsuit come walking out on the jetty to jump in. The waves weren't that big to not paddle out in dude. The best part is this jetty doesn't really have a jump in rock at the end, just barnacles and this kook was trying to figure out how to jump in for a 1/2 hour. Ha! Then he preceeded to paddle violently for every fucking wave that came in. Joke was on us.
3.9 @ 14secs from 305
Friday, October 23, 2009
Early week big dumpy swells. Slowly turning into later week shapely walls.
Beachbreak lovin'. I've missed my winter spot. Not many around, bars fixin' up and still warm water.
Got the bonus of a deep foggy morn today. Wish it could be foggy every morning. Keeps people away and keeps them on their cells talkin' "well bro, I can't see the waves yet so I am gonna stand here and keep drinkin' coffee" as I'm out getting the foggy goods.
5.7 @ 14secs from 305