Dream

It sure felt like a dream.
New homemade board. Long pointbreak.
EMPTY all weekend on the "worst tide".
Um, no, it was consistent long rides non stop treadmill fun.
Guess everyone was surfed out in the mornings fighting with the crowds?
Goddamn, Saturday especially, was top 5.

2.2 @ 12secs from 210

Fog

YES!

It is now completely fogged in at the beach. Can't see the waves from the beach.

Love it. Go home cold only surf in the sun kooks. Push wants some lowtide soloness.

3.0 @ 14secs from 300

Fun

This week has been super fun on lowtides.
Heard so many stories of crowded NW spots.
Why oh why when you can find a spot by yourself?
Out solo all week as I pass by the zoos.

7.7 @ 14secs from 300

A visit

Looked up my ol' lady Winter today.
See how she was holdin' up.
She told me stories of all the summer trash.
But today she was glassy and classy.
Think she's gonna put out a great Winter.
Shhhhhhhhhhhh.

NW was better than I thought. Out solo!

6.2 @ 12secs from 295

Yeah

Fall's a comin'.
SF's a callin'.
Stoney walks in the park and clear headed paddles in the ocean.

2.1 @ 10secs from 310

Yes

vimeo.com/26927949

Rad new Marzo short.
Love that they show the paddle in.
The drops.
The falls.
The rippin'.

Waves out there! Go seeeek.

3.3 @ 17secs from 185

Early Bird

Solo and foggy and very glassy.
That three of a kind wins.
Surf's droppin' finally.
But man what a summer already!

3.7 @ 17secs from 175

Weekender

Friday night fishin' long rights warm fun.
Saturday dark super early low tide long rides on glass.
Sunday stoney stoked and tired ridin' the oldest homemade that still floats.

Rest up. And bring on more!!!

3.3 @ 17 secs from 210

Foggy

Foggy mornings lately. Just the way I like it.

3.3 @ 17secs from 185

Gray

Loved this dark cold nasty winter.

Dumpy. Frumpy. Fishy.

Surf!

3.7 @ 16secs from 300

Boogiefish

Push love foggy dark mornings with swell.

From an ocean trashcan I snagged my first ever boogie.

Rad to see that my daily homemade board's just barely longer. Fishin'!



2.3 @ 15secs from 190

Spring

Been on the move and skate hunt lately. Livin' Diagonal.

Crashin' at random friends places. And skatin' everywhere once I stop.

C'mon Souths. Gimmie a reason to come on home!

3.3 @ 9secs from 308

Sand Fiesta

Summer's 'round the corner.
Smellin' that Southy beach.
Let's all go fishin'.
C'mon ladies.

3.0 @ 17secs from 195

The Road

Last coupla days are the first days of summer as far as I'm concerned. When I drive down this road at 4am it means Souths are flowin'! Only wish the road was still unpaved.

Added bonus of a phosphorus light show this morn in the dark. Trippy to see your hands and feet glowin' in the ocean. Caught more than a handful before the "regulars" showed up. And even then, not many of them did.

Yesterday was better.

Fishin'!!!!

2.5 @17secs from 185

Snowy Souths

Fun, fun, fun winter but bring on the Souths.

My first love.

Sorry if I ditched you for all of those Wests. I'll make it up to you every dawn. Or as much as I can.

Long points!!! Perfect rights!!!

1.1 @ 10 secs from 185

Sightseein' Sticks

Been makin' myself go a hundred miles north and then the next week a hundred miles south. New spots. New ocean lovely curves. Different homemade boards. Big fuckin' waves! Man that was fun. Stoked and tired.


Only didn't go in as much style as this pic.


3.0 @12secs from 275

Self-made

Fuckin' love this photo. Especially because name of it is "Cliff, '76 on a self-made Bonzer".

Fittin' since my self-made worked the best it has ever gone today. My feet are finally feelin' it. My weighting is finally realizin' it. Figurin' out a board is the greatest fun. Lovin' the 5'3" fatty. But really, the ocean did most all the work. I just held on.

My little spot finally is sandbarin' up. West is the best. Get here and I'll do the rest...


4.9 @ 15 from 285

TC

TC inna SC contest.
Crappy online transfer.
But perfect.
Rippin'!
'90


Huge @ short periods from everywhere

Gray and Grey

Nothing better than a rainy surf. A West. And glass. Let's go for a low tide sesh!!!

4.3 @ 14secs from 290

No ack

Eddie's on! Cleanup sets! Fun watchin' online. Although I wish I was that surfer above right now.

Go Clyde!

We had the cold version over here this morn, thick and rugged and messy where I was at. And cold. Pansy LA kid.

4.3 @ 10 secs from 310

Stussy

Fuck yeah. This made my day finding Stussy has a blog. Old school local shit.

shawnstussy.blogspot.com/

Heady

Foggy, fishin' and burnin'.

Thick lovely fog. Spliffin' in the bushes beforehand. Rocksteady. Had the day off and needed to see how the other side of the homemade board felt.

Less shape but better when the tide got higher. Talked to a guy who paddled out later in the morn who said "good to see it is that time of year again, where I see you runnin' down to the ocean at 5am stoked".

3.8 @ 14secs from 305

Lovin'

Good lumpy high tide lovin' this morn. Thought it would be a good day to dust off the dust from the last lam and try out my newly homemade fatty. She's 5'3" and red rice and beans definitely didn't miss her. About 21 3/4 wide.

A couple steep drops to closeouts.
A couple feet in the wrong spot.
A couple of kook outs.
Then a couple of speeeeed burners.


Love the board already. She's fast. Gonna have a real good time this season.


4.2 @ 12 seconds from 305

surf tunes

Go find it. 18 tracks. Crystal Voyager, Innermost Limits Of Pure Fun, Morning Of The Earth, on and on. Good listenin' for the dark DP rides. Gets ya goin'.

1.6 @ 12secs from 300

Fatty

Uh-oh, Push is back in the lab again. Measurin' and mistakin'.

Think you can tell where I'm going with my new creation. Short. Fat. And a round schnoz. Probably around 5'2". Fishin'!!


1.9 @11secs from 315

Lumpy Crowds

Redondo Breakwall crowded even way back in '61.

Well that long weekend kinda sucked. Sure there were good waves but the kooky crowds were everywhere. You'd get a spot to yourself for a 1/2 hour only to see groups of 4 running down to your break. Forgot my wetsuit one day after a pretty long drive to a certain spot. That sucked. Basically a lot of driving for lumpy waves and frumpy crowds.

Highlight was one day I was at a jetty and some tool in a green wetsuit come walking out on the jetty to jump in. The waves weren't that big to not paddle out in dude. The best part is this jetty doesn't really have a jump in rock at the end, just barnacles and this kook was trying to figure out how to jump in for a 1/2 hour. Ha! Then he preceeded to paddle violently for every fucking wave that came in. Joke was on us.

3.9 @ 14secs from 305

Doyle

Yep that looks like a South Bay wall.

And Mr. Doyle is rippin' it.

Fucking rad snap from back in the black and white days.


7.2 @ 11 secs from 310

Sea Smoke

Early week big dumpy swells. Slowly turning into later week shapely walls.

Beachbreak lovin'. I've missed my winter spot. Not many around, bars fixin' up and still warm water.

Got the bonus of a deep foggy morn today. Wish it could be foggy every morning. Keeps people away and keeps them on their cells talkin' "well bro, I can't see the waves yet so I am gonna stand here and keep drinkin' coffee" as I'm out getting the foggy goods.

5.7 @ 14secs from 305

Whoa!

All photos by Randy Wright. Pictures and story of a shark breaching off Sunset!

I'll paraphrase " On October 3, 2009 Randy Wright of Horizon's West Surf Shop, Santa Monica, was kayaking 320 yards off Sunset Beach.... Still looking towards the point area, at 9:00 AM exactly, I noticed some movement towards my left and quickly turned the camera and fired off 4 shots of something, I wasn't sure, airborne and then splashing. As I was not originally looking in the same exact direction, I did not see what it was, it happened so fast, but I assumed this was a shark, since I did not see any dolphins in the area surface and breathe afterwards...... At exactly 10:00 AM I heard another splash on my starboard side, towards the Bel Air Bay Club, but missed the animal breach, but shot the remnants of the splash. I did not see any other breaching by the time I left at 11:23 AM arriving back at Horizon's West Surf Shop at noon. Two friends, Carlos Pires and Paige Heatherington watched me unload my camera from the SPL Waterhousing and download and go over the photo's I shot that morning over the 4 hour period that I spent observing. Our jaws literally dropped when image #73, 74, 75, 76 appeared, for his was the legendary breaching shark in mid-air! This was what I saw and luckily captured.”

Gnarly!!! Hopefully it will eat some SUP kooks!

Read more here: http://sharkresearchcommittee.com/pacific_coast_shark_news.htm


2.5 @ 14secs from 200

Hmmm

On the cover of the Journal. Surprised. Kinda sucks but that's life. It mostly looks like this though. Shitty and small and no shape and very rocky.

Such good memories. Cool locals in and out of the water. Horses runnin' on the beach. Deep green brush meets super white sand meets turquoise water. No one 'round for miles of sandy coastline. Traveled there a coupla times and will travel there a coupla more. I'll shut up now.

2.4 @14secs from 185

Out West

Rollin' bones this mornin'. Like my man Biggie Smalls.

Shifty beachie. Lots of longish rights. Lotsa closeouts. Speedy sections. Fast walls. Old wintertime spot all week. Good to see it's shape is fairly good for so early in the season. Even saw speed-walkin' lady go by. I've seen her out there for 10 years or more. Crazy dedication.

Love sunny warm morns where you roll the bones, turn and drop, see whatcha got.


4.8 @ 12secs from 310