Thursday, September 24, 2009


On the cover of the Journal. Surprised. Kinda sucks but that's life. It mostly looks like this though. Shitty and small and no shape and very rocky.

Such good memories. Cool locals in and out of the water. Horses runnin' on the beach. Deep green brush meets super white sand meets turquoise water. No one 'round for miles of sandy coastline. Traveled there a coupla times and will travel there a coupla more. I'll shut up now.

2.4 @14secs from 185

Friday, September 18, 2009

Out West

Rollin' bones this mornin'. Like my man Biggie Smalls.

Shifty beachie. Lots of longish rights. Lotsa closeouts. Speedy sections. Fast walls. Old wintertime spot all week. Good to see it's shape is fairly good for so early in the season. Even saw speed-walkin' lady go by. I've seen her out there for 10 years or more. Crazy dedication.

Love sunny warm morns where you roll the bones, turn and drop, see whatcha got.

4.8 @ 12secs from 310

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Coast Coastin'

Peaceful. Fun. Fishy. Fall-ish. Dolphins. Different swells. Lovely last coupla days out in the ocean.

I would still give it all up to be the dude drivin' this car along the Malibu coast back in the day. What a time to be livin'!

2.4 @ 14secs from 200