Friday, January 25, 2008

'63 Hot Rod

Some sweet frame grabs of the footie of this dude ridin' a paipo at da wall bit from the cool site Frequent Rip Currents. Hope he or she don't mind. Great fuckin' footage!!

Love the shape of that board. My kinda board. Short, fat and single. Actually, my cut down longboard is very similar too that but this dude 50+ years ago kills me in style. Salivatin' over this footage. Oh my.

3.7 @ 14secs from 285

Thursday, January 24, 2008


Nothin' doin' but a whole lotta dreamin' and waitin'. And wishin' that was me.

3.2 @ 12secs from 320

Tuesday, January 22, 2008


Been sick and foggy for the last week. Didn't miss all that much from what I have heard but still missin' out on the lovely ocean. Too sick to even make it to the Wetsand Ether shindig and sneak down the specs of their funky boards for my next shape. Still coughin' and hackin'. People would say "well that is what you get for going out after the rains a couple weeks back". And I would say back "well those low tide overhead drainers were worth a couple sick days of missing cold mush".

Oh look, the huge DP tides are back this week. And so is the rain. Guess I will be in the shaping shed late of lot of these weeknights. Lovely Derek Levy foto by the way.

3.9 @ 10secs from 320
2.2 @ 17secs from 180

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Half Full

Is there anything worse than missing a morning that you knew would be good and fun? I was up at 5am staring out the window just not feeling any energy. Tryin' to move my body to at least start some coffee to get fired up. Nope. Still sittin'. Maybe a friend would call and fire me up to surf. Yeeah right, no job-havin'-lazy-midday-surfs-friends.

I knew that there were a couple swells in the water and the tide was going the right way for my spot and even those things couldn’t get me out to the garage to gather my board and suit. I was just feelin’ off but knowing that I would be pissed off later sitting at work looking at the cams. Damn. And that is where I am at now. Looks fun out there. Oh well, at least the surf is supposed to go flat for a week. Yay!

7.1 @ 12 secs from 320 plus a little southy mixed in

Tuesday, January 15, 2008

West is the Best

Meaty West Swell.
Weekend into Weekdays.
Still Going Strong.
Fun All Along.*

*With the exception of leaving my wallet hidden under a rock way at the end of a long hike down and not realizing it under I was all the way home drinkin' some beers. And when I made the long trip back to retrieve it, the hidden gem was workin' even better in the sunset light.

Saturday, January 12, 2008


Find your own gem this weekend. Walk over that next hill. Push through that last bush. Stroll down that random skinny path. Climb over that last rock. Look around that next cliff edge. Drive that extra mile. Walk that extra foot. Searchin'.

Me, I am waitin' for a certain tide.

Good angle.

Great conditions.

Only gettin' better.

Go hunt and score and don't call anyone.

10.4 @ 17secs from 280

Thursday, January 10, 2008

Skatin' and Mattson

The asphault Mavericks was fun tonight. Start at the top and pick your path way down to the bottom. Skatin'. Fun driverway lips and sidewalks. Smooth concrete with no traffic. See I was at the Mattson 2 and Barbee show tonight. Actually it was Money Mark who headlined but the stylin' jazz of the Mattson 2 was the reason we showed up. Such a tight good happy sound they have. Always a treat to see a show at the Troubadour because of the fun hills up the street from it. An hour before and at least an hour after. Take turns drivin' up the hill and skatin' down it. Only one leg rash from a cocky attempted slide out in a water patch.

If only Barbee knew of the fun skate up the way from him. Felt like lettin' him in on the secret and givin' him my homemade board to rip. He seems like he wouldn't mind ridin' a funky homemade longboard. Would love to see him style down the hill on it. But didn't want to kookily bother the cat. Anyway, yeah these guys are good live. Don't miss 'em next time they roll thru your neighborhood.

Surf should be good tomorrow morn. Hope the longer period stuff makes an appearance.

8.1 @ 10 secs from 310

EDIT: Just heard Money Mark did the score for this cool art film "Beautiful Losers". It is a film featuring all the "surf art heads" like Thomas Campbell, the lovely art of Margaret Kilgallen, Barry McGee, Mike Mills, etc. Check out the trailer. And a Money Mark score can only help. Trailer here:

Oh and the surf was grand this morn too. I'm tired and salted.

Tuesday, January 08, 2008

Shut up.

Everyone who is calling me about how great it was this morn. Shut up.
Non-surfing friends who ran on the beach this morn sayin' "Hey guys are starting from way out there and ending up on the beach, did you get good ones this morning?" Shut up.
Surfing friends who haven't called because they are still out getting' it good. Shut up.
All you with surf sites with sweet pics and stories from today. Shut up.
The cams that I am watchin' now pissed off and bitter. Shut off.


7.1 @ 12 secs from 305

Sunday, January 06, 2008


Didn't hit up this spot. Watched it a long long time after enjoying some peace with a friend. She had enough and began to wonder around lookin' for shells. I told her goodbye and went to plan B. A lot of energy out there but it just couldn't make up its mind. Backin' off and then thumpin'. Water was cold and didn't taste all that bad. The bar was kinda holdin' up under all this duress. A slight pattering of rain in the middle of the session. Sun peaked out towards the end. I felt very alive out there today. Still electrified.

11.6 @ 17 secs from 295

Friday, January 04, 2008


Gray clouds movin' in last night. Hopin' the wind will stay right overnight. Smell of rain in the air but no sign of it. Roll outta bed and load the board as the sky seems angry but know this could be my only chance. Buoys up. Pull up in the dim darkness and I see the white lines and what? it looks clean! Suit up super fast to the thumpin' tunes of Black Moon to get the vibe right. Run down and it turns out to be a fun session. All alone and some lumps comin' in. A little walled but the ocean feels clean and happy while the sky seems angry and dirty. Perfect. Surf a couple of hours and just at the tail end of the session the sky starts to influence the ocean. Ocean gets bumpy and swirly, time to go! Get into work just as it starts to rain down. Love these mornin's.

6.2 @ 14secs from 300