Monday, December 31, 2007


See ya '07.
Thanks for the goods.
Head high plus.
Drove down to my first love to end the year.
Started out at the Porto jetty until the tide killed it.
Drifted around it to the north and enjoyed dumpin' peaks.
Water cold but warm compared to where I have been lately.
A lot of heads but all super cool.
Noddin' to old locals.
Closely watchin' holiday newbies.
No wind all day at the beachies.
Stoney midday session at buddies beach shack.
Fiddlin' with fins and swappin' boards.
Gigglin' like schoolgirls out in the drink after.
2nd session was good but the clear headed first was mo bettah.
Red hot orange burnin' sunset.
Groovin' to good jams after.
Laughin' in an early new year.
They all went out to booze and pick up some ladies.
Hard to keep up these days.
But stoked.
Hope it holds.

7.7 @ 310 at 14 secs

Sunday, December 30, 2007

Ponderin' and a Wonderin'

Borrowed a 5'8" fishy and crusin' around the coast. Friends, family, new friends and friends that shouldn't be friends. A lot of solo time since most don't surf surprisingly. Do my time and then explore. New discoveries. New fears. A new sense of COLD. Uninviting and inviting all at once. Couldn't handle it sometimes. Especially on a short flat flyin' board. But that didn't happen much. High trimmin'. Low dippin'. Fun ones up around in this state of California. Beautiful setup this coast has if you just go. Too must feastin' and still want more.

6.2 @14secs from 310

Friday, December 14, 2007

Again Please

Jon Schafer pics.
Big olas thumpin'.
Fillin' me with energy.
Can we have more again.
I'm sick of this teasing shit.

2.1 @ 12secs from 305

Thursday, December 13, 2007

NY to the C

Rad slideshow from the past year up in the Wild East. Beautiful images.

2.1 @ 14 secs from 310

Friday, December 07, 2007



But fuck it was fun when it was here. Good to see a swell live up to the hype for once.

7.8 @ 10secs from 310

Thursday, December 06, 2007


Too much stoked fun for words. Facin' west and it was coming with it. Speedy glassy walls turnin' into barrelling sections. Most crowd I have seen ever at my little sandbar so I just moved down to the next peak which is just as good. Only with 13 less people. What is it with the pack mentality? Show off in front of other bros? Safety in numbers? Whatever. Swell cleaned up and got a bit more manageable. Lovely angle.

Fuckin' a blast.

Whitstik pic from yesterday. Mackin' Pier.

9.3 @ 14secs from 280

Wednesday, December 05, 2007


Lowkey session this morning. Travelin’ thru the burnt brush which you can still smell in the pre dawn still air. Tasting the burnt ash in the ocean. Big plumpy walls rollin’ thru. A couple out only and several OH waves peeling in. FUN. I got mine and got out before the crowds started to appear around 8am. Drivin' back I noticed a little house on the hill I always admired was all gone except for the chimney. Sad. Loved that little pad on the hill.

Big respectful RIP to the Northern California hellman who lost his life. Feel for his kid and family.

17.5 @ 17 secs from 265 (but I hid at a south spot)