Monday, October 17, 2011


It sure felt like a dream.
New homemade board. Long pointbreak.
EMPTY all weekend on the "worst tide".
Um, no, it was consistent long rides non stop treadmill fun.
Guess everyone was surfed out in the mornings fighting with the crowds?
Goddamn, Saturday especially, was top 5.

2.2 @ 12secs from 210

Friday, October 14, 2011



It is now completely fogged in at the beach. Can't see the waves from the beach.

Love it. Go home cold only surf in the sun kooks. Push wants some lowtide soloness.

3.0 @ 14secs from 300