Friday, October 30, 2009


Uh-oh, Push is back in the lab again. Measurin' and mistakin'.

Think you can tell where I'm going with my new creation. Short. Fat. And a round schnoz. Probably around 5'2". Fishin'!!

1.9 @11secs from 315

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Lumpy Crowds

Redondo Breakwall crowded even way back in '61.

Well that long weekend kinda sucked. Sure there were good waves but the kooky crowds were everywhere. You'd get a spot to yourself for a 1/2 hour only to see groups of 4 running down to your break. Forgot my wetsuit one day after a pretty long drive to a certain spot. That sucked. Basically a lot of driving for lumpy waves and frumpy crowds.

Highlight was one day I was at a jetty and some tool in a green wetsuit come walking out on the jetty to jump in. The waves weren't that big to not paddle out in dude. The best part is this jetty doesn't really have a jump in rock at the end, just barnacles and this kook was trying to figure out how to jump in for a 1/2 hour. Ha! Then he preceeded to paddle violently for every fucking wave that came in. Joke was on us.

3.9 @ 14secs from 305


Yep that looks like a South Bay wall.

And Mr. Doyle is rippin' it.

Fucking rad snap from back in the black and white days.

7.2 @ 11 secs from 310

Friday, October 23, 2009

Sea Smoke

Early week big dumpy swells. Slowly turning into later week shapely walls.

Beachbreak lovin'. I've missed my winter spot. Not many around, bars fixin' up and still warm water.

Got the bonus of a deep foggy morn today. Wish it could be foggy every morning. Keeps people away and keeps them on their cells talkin' "well bro, I can't see the waves yet so I am gonna stand here and keep drinkin' coffee" as I'm out getting the foggy goods.

5.7 @ 14secs from 305

Tuesday, October 06, 2009


All photos by Randy Wright. Pictures and story of a shark breaching off Sunset!

I'll paraphrase " On October 3, 2009 Randy Wright of Horizon's West Surf Shop, Santa Monica, was kayaking 320 yards off Sunset Beach.... Still looking towards the point area, at 9:00 AM exactly, I noticed some movement towards my left and quickly turned the camera and fired off 4 shots of something, I wasn't sure, airborne and then splashing. As I was not originally looking in the same exact direction, I did not see what it was, it happened so fast, but I assumed this was a shark, since I did not see any dolphins in the area surface and breathe afterwards...... At exactly 10:00 AM I heard another splash on my starboard side, towards the Bel Air Bay Club, but missed the animal breach, but shot the remnants of the splash. I did not see any other breaching by the time I left at 11:23 AM arriving back at Horizon's West Surf Shop at noon. Two friends, Carlos Pires and Paige Heatherington watched me unload my camera from the SPL Waterhousing and download and go over the photo's I shot that morning over the 4 hour period that I spent observing. Our jaws literally dropped when image #73, 74, 75, 76 appeared, for his was the legendary breaching shark in mid-air! This was what I saw and luckily captured.”

Gnarly!!! Hopefully it will eat some SUP kooks!

Read more here:

2.5 @ 14secs from 200