Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Pants Point

Again. Same spot.

3.4-3.9 at 18secs @ 160-180

5:45am, walk up to see a board being rocked against the boulders, i push it safety, paddle out, my leash comes loose on thee first OH wave, swim all the way in, drop in a dude for the first time all summer, and then just pile on the long rights, good foot position, catching more waves than any others for the last 1 hour +.

Bigger and wider to the pink shack on the big sets. Inside section was working very well. Could take off left side of the white trimmed house and work long rides. Lotsa push.

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

Point Pants

Drivin' by Topanga.

3.1 to 3.4 @ 20 out of the 170 direction.

4:30am-7:30am 5-18 heads.

Semi good, pushy, low going to high tide, glassy, some long lulls at Point Pants. Insides would break way right and the big ones would break way out at twin palms.

All and all an interesting start of the swell from New Zealand.