Tuesday, July 31, 2007


As this pic shows it was pumpin' this morn! Swell snuck in overnight and was overhead for only two hours. If you were there you got it good. I mean look at me on that wall!

Wellll, not really. But the windswell picked up a tad. Ventured to my negative low spot and it was alright. Before light. Needed to surf in the dark if you were going to enjoy the good tide. My freshly fixed dinged board smilin' to be back in the ocean.

2 hours later the bartender closed up shop. She drank too much during her shift and it turned to sloppy mush. Still good to get warmly wet.

4.2 @ 10 secs from 320

Wednesday, July 25, 2007


Well that sucked. Need to stare at this snap and dream of simple times gone by.

Got to the spot just before 5am and it was still dark and very foggy. Perfect. Paddled out. Enjoyed some chest highs every so often. Dark still but figuring out how much this swell was hitting and where. Only me and one other until 6:30ish and then the masses hit. 2 and 3 at a time. Big longboards. Long lulls. Mostly all different faces than I usually see at this spot. Wetsand/surfline readers probably. All of us just bobbing up and down and then frenzied paddling for any little blip. Sat inside, wisely, and picked off a couple that were starting to back off with the incoming high tide.

Long lulls. Few waves. Crowded to the gills. Not fun. Summer.

Ocean must have been punishing me for my thoughts and words on parking lot surfers, kooky 4-to-a-car surfers, warm weather surfers, the lot. Oh well.

As always though, early bird get thee worm.

1.9 @ 14 secs from 190
a ton of heads out

Tuesday, July 24, 2007


Study the snap. And follow it's rules.
Only you and maybe one other.
Should paddle out at any one spot.
Don't call everyone post sesh.
Let them find it.

1.7 @ 14secs from 190

Monday, July 23, 2007


And react. Soon.

1.6 @ 14secs from 210

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Sandolla Holla

Sad, sad, day when I have to use a parking lot to surf. Think it has been about a year since my last parking lot surf. But there isn't much swell and I have to resort to drastic measures. Get there super early. Oh what? The parking fuzz doesn't open the gate until 5:30? Damn. Enjoy some Bad Brains and chill. Realize how much I take for granted. All my spots are off the beaten path. For the most part. And surely don't have any parking lots in front of them.

Cruise down to the negative low tide peak. Kinda workin'. Kinda funky. New sights. New lights. New rocks. New fun. But mushy. Walk back and find 4 fully intact sanddollars. Love the low tide finds. At least something good came out of me being one of the masses for a day. Glad I am not part of them the other 364. Leave out of the lot and see the same ol' cool guy bro brah stares. Same ol' funboard three-to-a-car kooks. Same ol' old men coffee drinkers talkin' bout their sweet sesh the other day. Same ol' hottie girls in bikini bottoms washin' off. Summer in the south bay.

3.1 @ 8secs from 310
first out

Monday, July 16, 2007


It's that time again. Gettin' the itch for being itchy. Foamdust in my hair and eyes. Livin' in the small dark room with waves plastered all over. Just me and two y's and a block of foam. Find the board within. Single? Twin fin? 5'8? 5'9? Or 5"10. Stoked.

3.1 @ 8secs from 290

Tuesday, July 10, 2007


Fucking Yay.
Fix dings.
Shape your next board.
Make fins.
Bodysurf the ankle slappers
Jump off pier at dawn.
Swim pier to pier.
Paddleboard the Bay.
Walk along the coastline.
Explore new possible set ups.
Skate pools and parks.
Take your girl out on a softtop.
Play with your animals.
Play with your kids if you have those.
Grow your garden.
Feast and drink late into the night.
See live music.
See live art.
Live. Until next swell.
When you become a slave again.
Tied to the tide.

2.1 @ 9 secs from 310

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Warm Summer Mush

Good to feel the warm waves again. Felt like 75 at 5am and the water warmer than the air. Not much crowd surprisingly somehow someway. Even up til when I got out around 8:30. Everyone waitin' for the right tide? Would rather get crappier tide by myself than better tide jockeyin' for olas.

Some good ones comin' thru. Some mushy ones. Closeouty sections on the super low tide but that just made the waves faster. Many people on the beach already. Goin' to be a sweet beach day in LA. But I am at work.

2.7 @ 17secs from 195
1st out!