As this pic shows it was pumpin' this morn! Swell snuck in overnight and was overhead for only two hours. If you were there you got it good. I mean look at me on that wall!
Wellll, not really. But the windswell picked up a tad. Ventured to my negative low spot and it was alright. Before light. Needed to surf in the dark if you were going to enjoy the good tide. My freshly fixed dinged board smilin' to be back in the ocean.
2 hours later the bartender closed up shop. She drank too much during her shift and it turned to sloppy mush. Still good to get warmly wet.
4.2 @ 10 secs from 320