Saturday, May 31, 2008


Kevin Short fish artin'.

Last two days have been some junky small windswell. Winds up this morning, surf shape down the other morning. Surfed within distance of my good old friend from the last couple years. Sad to see her just not working anymore. No more shape or sandbar. Gone. This spot had been goin' really good the last two years and pretty good for three before that. Too much sand moved into it is my poor guess. Sucks either way. Such a fun wave last year. Readin' my old writings had me super nostalgic for her long rippable fast rights. Then again, this might be the best thing that happened. Word was gettin' out. 4 heads out when the tide started. Then 7 heads on the days it was tubing. Tales were being told. Barrels being spoken of. Shit, I even blabbed more than usual. Talkin' story is good...just don't give away the tide that makes it work!

Sloshed a beer down at the foamez party after and learned a couple boardmakin' tips. Some beautiful work by the nine lights dude there too. All stokin' now to mow some foam but too bad I didn't win a blank in the raffle.

1.6 @ 17 from 180

Tuesday, May 27, 2008


Maaaaaaaaaaaaan, I love these little southeasts. Under the radar. Posts about the Gnar Gnar. Snap's takin' Ryan Tartar. Can't wait to ride that wave again far far. What?

Little small south eekin' like mouse into some spots today it seems. I had a fun little solo session on point. Beautiful weather and beautiful waves. Slow but fast. Sometimes the smallest olas stoke you out the most. Keep fightin' Grandma!

2.6 @ 14secs at 170

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Livin' Life

Coupla Jeff Johnson snaps from awhile back. Carbon copy look and feel of this mornin'.

Got 2 hours by myself at a glassy, peaky hike a bit spot. Sun even came out this mornin' after it pushed over the thick fog. It cleaned up and mellowed out makin' for some playful stokin' runs on the fishy. Dodgin' low tide rocks and thick kelp. Swoopin' and loopin'. Was even kinda hoping after hour one that some head would show up just so I wouldn't feel bad for letting some good waves go by because I couldn't snag 'em all. So tired after the long ride to long paddle to long ride to long paddle to long ride to long paddle ritual of the early morn. But I ain't complainin'. I gotta check the archives as to what the last steep south did to this spot but I gotta it saved in the ol' memory now.

On a sad note, I gave all my rides this swell to my cool Grandma who has been fightin' Alzheimer's for waaaay longer than anyone expected. But she is on her couple last rides I think. Food cloggin' into her lungs sucking her air away and we aren't the family to keep one of us alive just to suffer more. Such a shitty disease. Not that a feed tube would help anyway since it is all going to her lungs. Keep on truckin' Grandma as long as you can! You are, and have been, a tough tough fighter. And you lived a long great wonderful 92 years.

3.1 @ 17secs from 160 (!)

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Dippin' Moon

Not as good as this snap but close this mornin'.

Swell filled in nicely over the last two days. Last night feast at sundown was amazingly consistent and thumpin'. Beauty of a sunset with just a few in the know heads.

This mornin's solo session, for the first 1 hour plus, was just as nice. Lost the dippin' full moon once I got to the coast. Super foggy and gray. Tons o' kelp. Consistent big lumps. Only bummer was the super low tide makin' the mackers close out more than normal. Guess I got what I deserved by writin' about being on the ocean's time. I was on the wrong side of it this morning but I knew I could have solo waves and a bad tide or a good tide and crowds. I'll always take the former without a doubt.

Steep angle and low on the radar swells make me stoked. Hope this swell sticks around for a bit as she is a goodie!

3.7 @ 17secs from 175

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Not on Your Watch

Love bein' on the ocean's time.

You only got an hour window in the morning? Not going to be good unless it is the right tide and you can get to the right spot.

You can only surf Saturday afternoon? Won't matter unless there is swell and a tide you can work with.

You can only get out after work evenings? Could be blown out by then and you'll be skunked.

Love bein' on the ocean's time.

Took the new homemade to my little reef that works on high tide. Fun ones every so often with not a soul around. I think the time was 6:44 when I got the ride that I was wanting to get way back when I just began drawing dimensions up in Idaho. Everything connected with a little walky to the nose and a flyin' kick out to end it. Let out a stokin' hoot that I couldn't help not coming out of me. Peaky clean windswell. Ready for some south energy now!!!

4.4 @ 8 secs from 310

Friday, May 09, 2008


Need a surf check house? Need 11,000 square feet because your quiver is so huge? Want a couple guest houses you could convert to shaping rooms? Gotta spare 39 million?

Well, have I got the house for you. Resting on a La Jolla bluff. Private trail access to Black’s Beach. Ugly ass house but cool infinity pool to rest your bones after getting pounded at Blacks. The shitty thing would be having to walk all the way back up the private trail after a long session. But, how cool would it be to drink some beers around that table talkin’ post-sesh story?

Man, so many surf sites to catch up on. Man, so little shitty no-energy waves to surf this mornin’.

2.1 @ 9 secs from 310

Thursday, May 08, 2008

Mellow Yeller

Off up in Idaho working and working for the man for half a month or so. Beautiful country. I knew I'd have some downtime and no buddies so I brought an old Clark Foam Super Blue blank I had kept around for times like this and brought some hand tools up with me. Rented out, basically for me buying them beer, this dilapidated old shack just outside of the random town of Ketchum. Set up a tarp to try to keep most of the messy foam contained. Turned on an old cassette deck and started mowin' foam on my 3rd. Love my cassettes and how they “make” you listen to the whole album and not just push skip all the time. She came out 5'4ish. Yellow. Fat. Nasty. Little fishy, what else really?

Cool experience being up in the Northwest, breathing good air and shapin' a board. Only thing that got to me was the lack of the ocean, obviously. Fondlin' foam every other day though got me through it and kept me feeling connected. Almost felt the ocean connection more so up there than when I am home for some odd reason. I was obsessed with thinking about the waves I was trying not to forget while shapin' the fishy's curves. Felt a little better about the glassin’ part, my laps were cut well and didn’t need to sand as much at the end. Still lumpy and bumpy but hey, the ocean is lumpy and bumpy, a perfect fit.

Fun first week back in the LA ocean. New fishy had some fun windswell at the beginning of the week. Peaks and valleys and mush and speed. Although I wished the tide was lower, coulda been even more fun at a lil' spot. And then some south lines with some old faces the last couple of days of last week. A good inconsistent south where the sets still came in big 3's every 30 minutes. Warm air, cold water, salty taste, sealife smell, a seal, and some kind of whale blowin' his spout only 100 feet away. So fun to ride your own creation, figurin' out the good foot spots, amazed that it isn’t sinkin’, and smilin’ ear to ear. Long swoopin' speedin' pointin' waves. Love the ocean.

1.7 @ 9 secs from 310