Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Dippin' Moon

Not as good as this snap but close this mornin'.

Swell filled in nicely over the last two days. Last night feast at sundown was amazingly consistent and thumpin'. Beauty of a sunset with just a few in the know heads.

This mornin's solo session, for the first 1 hour plus, was just as nice. Lost the dippin' full moon once I got to the coast. Super foggy and gray. Tons o' kelp. Consistent big lumps. Only bummer was the super low tide makin' the mackers close out more than normal. Guess I got what I deserved by writin' about being on the ocean's time. I was on the wrong side of it this morning but I knew I could have solo waves and a bad tide or a good tide and crowds. I'll always take the former without a doubt.

Steep angle and low on the radar swells make me stoked. Hope this swell sticks around for a bit as she is a goodie!

3.7 @ 17secs from 175


At 11:02 PM, Blogger Ryan said...

Love this picture... did you take that with a Holga?


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