Thursday, March 13, 2008

Foggy Droppy Swelly

Two shitty things happened this morning. A thick fog blocked the predawn light makin' it tough to see anything until almost 7. And the swell backed off way more than I expected. At least it was quiet except for my buddy the sea lion for an hour or so in the dark. Orion. Big Dipper. Stars everywhere.

During a long lull, I was rollin' out there laughing to myself of a quote from a kooky local a couple weeks back. He was flailing and dropping in on everything and fallin' and kookin' on his 10'6"+ board. I am out on my fishy grabbing non-stop waves, havin' a blast. He huffs and puffs up to me after paddling back from a wave, which he barely made the drop and unsteadily stood on his board for 50 yards, and says "How long's that board you are riding?" 5'4" I say and he shoots back, "welllll, that's your problem".

What? Yeah I guess that is my problem. A lovely one.

2.0 @ 14secs from 180


At 9:55 PM, Blogger tres_arboles said...

I can't even figure out what that guy was getting at?


At 7:20 AM, Blogger pranaglider said...

It could be worse. I get asked if I am riding an inflateable dog bed.

At 5:26 PM, Blogger Doc said...

I ride a 10' 6"...

But that weren't me.


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