Foggy Droppy Swelly

Two shitty things happened this morning. A thick fog blocked the predawn light makin' it tough to see anything until almost 7. And the swell backed off way more than I expected. At least it was quiet except for my buddy the sea lion for an hour or so in the dark. Orion. Big Dipper. Stars everywhere.

During a long lull, I was rollin' out there laughing to myself of a quote from a kooky local a couple weeks back. He was flailing and dropping in on everything and fallin' and kookin' on his 10'6"+ board. I am out on my fishy grabbing non-stop waves, havin' a blast. He huffs and puffs up to me after paddling back from a wave, which he barely made the drop and unsteadily stood on his board for 50 yards, and says "How long's that board you are riding?" 5'4" I say and he shoots back, "welllll, that's your problem".

What? Yeah I guess that is my problem. A lovely one.

2.0 @ 14secs from 180