Tuesday, February 05, 2008


Lots o' wind lately. Blustery. Even when it wasn't really windy today it felt windy. Got some time off and went to visit my negative low bar. Was readin' my Feb. '07 write ups and I was glowin' and gluttonous over this spot. Need to see what the rains and swell have done. Beautiful sunny crisp day.

Today the water was kinda choppy and bumpy but still had that afternoon glassy feel. Close interval swell meant a pathetically long paddle out. Out of shaped paddlin' pullbacks. Huffin' and puffin' rip currents south. Kooky bottom turns and barrel crouches. But it all felt grand.

Bar was pretty rough however. A lot of closeouts. Seemed a lot of sand moved out to sea. Up to my armpits I could stand at the take-off spot. Suckin' out hard on a couple sandspit-like grindin' hollow barrels. Those were a blast.

I am still hopin' that it was just the messy-ish swell and not that my bar has changed owners from last year.

9.1 @ 12secs from 295


At 5:43 AM, Blogger eric said...

Absolutely fantastic....great shot.

At 7:19 AM, Blogger Bill said...

Killer photo..
Killer blog..

surf on bro.

At 8:09 AM, Blogger J.P. said...

What a photo!

At 4:08 PM, Blogger Erik Hakon Olson said...

Insano Photo! One of the rare moments where staring at a computer monitor actually feels good.

Interesting to hear you've been comparing notes from this year with last year, I've been doing the same.


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