Monday, February 04, 2008


Cool new lil' shortie from Kidman. "The Ghosts Are Calling". Hope you ain't burnt out on all the love for him lately but there is a reason for it all. His shit is incredible.

A far-off unknown buddy shapin' a crazy multi channelled board. I take the long flight over there and he shows me his shapin' shed hidden in the back corner of his land and I drool. He lets me glass the top and then he fixes my mistakes. We drink some home brewed ale and talk local surf story as we wait for the resin to dry. Long into the night we bike down in the cold night to this cove he has been watchin'. "Sweet lefty down there".

Next morning I awake to the sounds of his cows and look out my little cabin window to the beautiful green rolling hills with the sun tryin' to peak over them. Bangin' on the door makes me jump up. No one there except a cup of joe, some herb and a video camera with a note "Sweet lefty down there".

I enjoy the mornin' air and scenery and start to make my way down the trail, past the cows and through the hills until I see the penguins. Over the bluff I am stoked at the sight. I'll have to wait and video for hours until my buddy gets out of the ocean. But it'll be worth it once I get my turn. "Yep", I said around the fire later that night "that is a sweet lefty!"

All snaps grabbed from his new flick. Hope he don't mind my ramblin's.

11.8 @ 12secs from 315


At 5:08 PM, Blogger ras said...

yours is by far the best surfing blog. the stories, the images -it's like you tell them like one remembers waves, sequences here and there and what you get is a turn, flow and kickout.

At 5:29 AM, Blogger Bill said...

Agree w/ras........


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