Thursday, March 06, 2008

Fortunate


Santa Barbara hill dweller, Paul Cumes, his paintin' explains it all the last couple of days. Just add another fin to that board.

Seriously, where the hell is everyone?! It has been close to perfect all week if you disregard the 5+ foot tide mushiness. Love this off the way spot on the high tides. The backwash actually makes some steep sections after you have been mushin' it for 200 yards. Sunny warm water mornin' sessions with no one around. Guess everyone doesn't work around here and can wait out the tide but I would rather get it mushy and alone then faster and jockeyin' for waves. And the little fishy takes care of makin' the mush fun.

Stoked. Weird feeling walkin' back up to the car and seeing some lady is struggling to get in the front seat of her car all while holding her wheel chair. Then she has to lean down and fold it up and somehow get it in the car. My stoked smile faded and I felt kind of selfish thinkin' how lucky I am to be so happy in the mornings. To be able to get up in the early dawn and have fun and run around and paddle and surf while it takes some others in this world a long tough time just to get into a car.

3.7 @ 14 secs from 185

6 Comments:

At 4:56 PM, Blogger Malcolm Johnson said...

we've got it real lucky. good thing to remember for sure.

 
At 9:11 AM, Blogger Daniel said...

Very true. Great post.

 
At 11:53 AM, Blogger Rick said...

yo push. good as always brejren.

hey did you listen to Radiodread yet?

ras

 
At 7:07 AM, Blogger L said...

Yup reckon we need to take a minute just to take in how fortunate we are

 
At 7:51 AM, Blogger pranaglider said...

I think everyone is sick and or recovering from the flu that was going around.

 
At 11:19 AM, Blogger ras said...

Radiodread is the new record by easy star allstars. it's Radiohead's OK Computer in dub and reggae. They also did Dub Side of the Moon.

 

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