Not a good change of pace
Gross. Disgusting. Pathetic. Forgot what crowds do to me. Thrown the fuck off. Too much starin’ and vibin’ and back pedalin’ even if it wasn’t directed at me. Too much droppin’ and floppin’ around. Too much yellin’ and screamin’ and ego-in’. Crowded by 6am. Super crowded by 7am. Shoulda went to my low-key spot but wanted a change of pace.
On the swell side though, it was on it! Consistent biggish sets and long long long rides. Got a couple but for the most part I would let a guy go who wouldn’t make it and it would be too late for me to go or I would go and get dropped in on. FUCK YOU. Seriously, it has been beaten to death but what the fuck is wrong with surfers at these places? How do you not look and just drop in? How do you yell at the rider in front of you when there are 3 riders behind you? FUCK YOU.
I learned my lesson. It is the middle of summer. No joy at the points. I’ll be stoked again tomorrow. By myself. Talkin’ to the local sea lion.
3.4 @ 16secs from 180