Thursday, July 31, 2008

Not a good change of pace

Gross. Disgusting. Pathetic. Forgot what crowds do to me. Thrown the fuck off. Too much starin’ and vibin’ and back pedalin’ even if it wasn’t directed at me. Too much droppin’ and floppin’ around. Too much yellin’ and screamin’ and ego-in’. Crowded by 6am. Super crowded by 7am. Shoulda went to my low-key spot but wanted a change of pace.

On the swell side though, it was on it! Consistent biggish sets and long long long rides. Got a couple but for the most part I would let a guy go who wouldn’t make it and it would be too late for me to go or I would go and get dropped in on. FUCK YOU. Seriously, it has been beaten to death but what the fuck is wrong with surfers at these places? How do you not look and just drop in? How do you yell at the rider in front of you when there are 3 riders behind you? FUCK YOU.

I learned my lesson. It is the middle of summer. No joy at the points. I’ll be stoked again tomorrow. By myself. Talkin’ to the local sea lion.

3.4 @ 16secs from 180

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Musicess Finless

EDIT: Didn't know this was from Mickie's "Musica Surfica"?! Sweeeet!
Derek Hynd
South Africa.
360 spins.
720 spins.
Deep bottom turns.
Critical parts of the wave.
Now ya learnin'

Pretty slow out there this morn. Just couldn’t sleep in so I had to get wet. Still a small ride or three to be had.

2.1 @ 12secs from 185

Monday, July 28, 2008


How FUN was Saturday!?
How more FUN was Sunday!?!?
How smaller still FUN was this morn!??!?!?!

The Saturday dusk/Sunday dawn combo was workin’ this weekend. Way consistent enough for the small cool headed pack. Cool old school locals I haven’t seen in awhile. Smiles. Givin’ waves. Perfect shape. Oil glass. I’ll stop.

2.0 @ 14secs from 190

Friday, July 25, 2008


Buoys up a bit. Hit the coffee and split. Warzone out there. Drivin' all sleepy-eyed and barely dodge a huge pipe in the 3rd lane, then saw a homeless woman walkin' and talkin' in middle of the slow lane that really had me wide-eyed, and finally a stalled car that came up FAST when you goin' 85 to beat the dawn light. Man, it was like some Spy Hunter shit out there drivin' to the beach this morning.

So on came some Redman that chilled me out...

You wanna see me get cool, please, save it for the breeze
cause the lyrics and tracks, make me funky like cottage cheese
Fuck the smoov shit, I get down wit the boom bip
like Q-Tip, I kick more styles than Bruce shoe's kick
But tonight's the night what I write tonight
This type of funk with the flavor like Mike'n'Ike's

Got to the peace zone. Only one out again. Foggy again. Oil glass again. More inconsistent but the sets were plentiful. Good shaped rides. Said what up to my buddy the sea otter. You know it will be a good day when you get 4 rides to the beach before the sun even came up. Every wave after that was just stokin' on the cake.

Another war and peace day in LA.

2.4 @14secs from 180

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Foolin' around.

Couldn't figure it out last night. Decided to hit the sack early with pleasant dreams of the 3 swells mixin' around out there in the morn. Something has to hit.

Got to the spot just as the sky was becoming dark blue. Perfect timin'. Could feel the different energies out there, all were small but the one swell (maybe the new south?) had the most uumpfh. Chesty set every 30 minutes. I was alone all session so I could sit and wait or go for the small ones. It was hard to sit and wait. Missed a couple of the bigger ones because I got antsy for anything. Tired, noodled arms from the long fishy rides.

Is there any board overall better than a fish at a mushy place? They are just so stokin' fun it is incredible. Never get sick of that trim and speed and makin' and breakin' sections.

1.9 @17secs from 170

Monday, July 21, 2008

Kinda, almost, soon, tide turning, excuses.

Jewing altered snaps.

Well that was kinda fun in an overhyped way. Swell felt like it was always building but never quite got there. Most waves I was wishing for a couple more feet of size but beggars can’t be choosers. Lotsa kookies and teams of 4 dudes though. But when they would show up I’d already had my fill and leave.

This mornin’ was a classic North LA morn. Nothing special but a good sunrise, glassy, small swell hangin’ around and not many heads around.

On a more shitty note, got a postcard ad thing plastered on my car on Sunday. Pimping some new surf forecasting site, like we fuckin’ need more of those. Won’t even name the site because hopefully no one will go look and please do your part in not naming it either. Maybe they’ll leave. Scrub it kook. It even has pictures of many out of the way Malibu to Ventura spots. Fuuuck. So glad my go to spot wasn’t on there. I was scared when I started looking at the pics. That shit is just not needed. It doesn’t help anyone and doubt the dudes running it will make any real money compared to the number of people they piss off. So piss off.

2.8 @14secs from 180

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Beach Trip

they sit as the
waves go in and

they sit as the
stock market
makes and breaks
men and families

the sit while
one punch of a button
could turn their
turkeynecks to
black and shriveled

they sit while
suicides in green rooms
trade it in for more space

they sit while former
Miss Americas
weep before wrinkled
they sit
they sit with less
life-flow than apes
and my woman stops and
looks at them:
"oooh oooh oooh," she

I walk off with
my woman as the waves
go in and out.

"there's something wrong
with them," she said, "what
is it?"
"their love only runs in
one direction."

the seagulls whirl and
the sea runs in and out
and we left them
back there
wasting themselves
this moment
the seagulls
the sea
the sand.


2.5 @ 10secs (??) from 180

Friday, July 18, 2008


Not much energy out there this morn but it did feel good to get the soul wet. Gray on gray. Beautiul.

Calm before the storm.
Ripples before the walls.
Reflecting before the reacting.
Alone before the crowds.
Stoke before the anger.
Smiles before the frowns.

I know I’ll get mine. Hope you all get yours.

1.2 @ 14secs from 175

Thursday, July 17, 2008

Early Bird

Gi-gi-gitty up! Have been sadly dry since bein’ back.

Masses gwan be frothin’ soon. Just might have to get out there at 3am if I am thinkin' about snaggin' some solo olas. Twist my arm. Let's surf!

1.6 @ 12secs from 195

Tuesday, July 15, 2008


Holy Shit what a snap! Some photog named Ted Grambeau. Great pic. Beautiful.

Check out more of his style here:

Love the snap of the kid on a 3/4 broken board STOKED!

2.2 @ 14 secs from 230

Monday, July 14, 2008


Yikes. That is a sketchy Taiwanese ship sitting right on the takeoff spot at Padang Padang. Greenpeace has been chasin' it for a variety of offenses. The captain could have been murdered by the crew. Pirates could have taken it over. Who knows. Rip Curl contest is supposed to go on there this week, could make some good photos but how much of the reef did that ship destroy?

Weird but cool to be back into civilization. Good waves, warm water, campin' on beaches, chillin' with amazing locals, and firin' points. My homemade fishy made the trip in one piece. She was fine on even the bigger waves. The leashcup ripped off on the second to last day so I had a couple beachbreak no leash sessions that were fun, and very tiring.

Seems like I didn't miss much around here but some windswell and small souths.

2.2 @ 16secs from 210