Thursday, July 24, 2008

Foolin' around.

Couldn't figure it out last night. Decided to hit the sack early with pleasant dreams of the 3 swells mixin' around out there in the morn. Something has to hit.

Got to the spot just as the sky was becoming dark blue. Perfect timin'. Could feel the different energies out there, all were small but the one swell (maybe the new south?) had the most uumpfh. Chesty set every 30 minutes. I was alone all session so I could sit and wait or go for the small ones. It was hard to sit and wait. Missed a couple of the bigger ones because I got antsy for anything. Tired, noodled arms from the long fishy rides.

Is there any board overall better than a fish at a mushy place? They are just so stokin' fun it is incredible. Never get sick of that trim and speed and makin' and breakin' sections.

1.9 @17secs from 170


At 2:23 PM, Blogger Quiver said...

Sometimes a short single-fin can be fun in mushy waves. I've got a Fineline GeeBee that likes to just sit in the curl on mushy waves and if the wave stands up even a little it feels cool cause I'm just right in the pocket. Then if the section comes down I can slip down around it. No dancing around like a fish will let you do though. No floaters or cutbacks, just crusin'

At 9:15 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

Did you paint that? I really like it!

At 4:05 AM, Blogger Lee said...

i love the smell of fish


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