Easy

Woke up quick, at about noon, jus' thought that I had to be in Compton soon...


Well that sucked. Kinda. Alarm didn't go off at 4 like I wanted it to. Woke up at 5am and got pissed. Felt weird speeding off in the daybreak light when I normally woulda had several long olas by then. Knowing that there might be several heads on it already and I missed my hour of solitude. Damn.

Although, it was cool to see the surroundings and the lovely drive in the daylight, noticed so many more things! Super foggy as I hit the coast but the spot I picked was all clear. Moonset. First one out and only out for the session. My surfin' was off all morning though, I blame the late wake up and rushing to the ocean. Threw me off. Blown drops. A long belly ride. Weak turns. Feeble paddling. Pathetic attempts at speed.

On the long walk back to the car I passed by an older couple. The old dude stared at my board and said, "wow that musta been fun today, looks like you had it to yerself" Just those words calmed me down and I realized that I should take nothing for granted and not be pissed at some blown waves or a "late" start. Remember the good ones, remember that I had my pick of the sets, remember the tranquility of the early morning sealife and sounds, remember you're still livin'.

2.8 @ 14secs from 295