Livin' Life

Coupla Jeff Johnson snaps from awhile back. Carbon copy look and feel of this mornin'.

Got 2 hours by myself at a glassy, peaky hike a bit spot. Sun even came out this mornin' after it pushed over the thick fog. It cleaned up and mellowed out makin' for some playful stokin' runs on the fishy. Dodgin' low tide rocks and thick kelp. Swoopin' and loopin'. Was even kinda hoping after hour one that some head would show up just so I wouldn't feel bad for letting some good waves go by because I couldn't snag 'em all. So tired after the long ride to long paddle to long ride to long paddle to long ride to long paddle ritual of the early morn. But I ain't complainin'. I gotta check the archives as to what the last steep south did to this spot but I gotta it saved in the ol' memory now.

On a sad note, I gave all my rides this swell to my cool Grandma who has been fightin' Alzheimer's for waaaay longer than anyone expected. But she is on her couple last rides I think. Food cloggin' into her lungs sucking her air away and we aren't the family to keep one of us alive just to suffer more. Such a shitty disease. Not that a feed tube would help anyway since it is all going to her lungs. Keep on truckin' Grandma as long as you can! You are, and have been, a tough tough fighter. And you lived a long great wonderful 92 years.


3.1 @ 17secs from 160 (!)