Monday, June 02, 2008


I had heard of Carl Fredrik Holtermann. Some dude that took off to Southern Africa about ten years ago. Landed at a spot above the wave rich country of South Africa. Just grabbed some clothes and his art tools and said fuck it! Set up shop just above Jangamo. He had some money from a rush of last minute art showin's and he built up a nice little house over there. Board shed out back. Very alone. Very live off the land style. Locals somehow loved this random white man. Invited him into their culture and Carl immersed himself in the no computer telephone no more work for the man existence. Livin'

A buddy took off to locate him one year. Of course, he had to bring three surfboards. Just in case, you know, if ol' Carl would have some local pals who would want to slide too. Flew into S.A. and drove the jeep north. Along cliffs. Over sand. Thru windy coastal roads. Surfin' the setups along the way. Cool head locals to share the amazing waves with. Many hot tips learned. Never did find Mr. Holtermann but he found his piece to the puzzle. Perfection. Livin'

But it didn't faze Carl if anyone found him or not. He'd just wake up, eat a pear off his tree, and walk to the cliff. Offshore breezes, swells from the southeast and beautiful warm water out his front yard. His daily choice. A long rippin' rocky right at a reef a 300 feet down the shore. Or a pointy left break about a mile the other way. The rocks around here, although sharp, made it fuckin' heavy and tubin'. And always on time was C. Fredrik. In heaven. Livin'

1.7 @ 12secs from 170 (yaay)


At 5:04 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

how a guy like you can stand living in LA is a mystery...

At 2:52 PM, Blogger Gazelle said...

Love that art piece.

Anon raises a good point, I think. But of course, we all do what we gotta do when we gotta do it. I lived as an adult in LA for ten years and was pretty happy about it.

At 5:10 PM, Blogger pushingtide said...

True anon. But I have a wandering mind, don't get caught up in the bullshit, and search out and find solo peaks to keep me stoked. LA actually has a lot of beauty when you find it.

At 3:31 PM, Anonymous anon again said...

high on a hill in LA after a good storm, with clear skies, you can see why people set up there way back when. I remember the first time I flew into Ontario on a clear day - damn, there are mountains all around! seriously, had no idea they were there on five previous visits.


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