Thursday, June 19, 2008


Fun, fun, glassy lowtidin' fun allllll week.

Never any crowd in the predawn light.
Some heads show up a little after sunrise.
Donkeys/kooks/tools/fake brobrahs all show up an hour later after they pick each other up and get all their big ass boards into or on top of their cars and then buy coffee and then finally all get suited up after talking about their epic wave they somehow didn't fall on the day before. By then, I am fishin' my last wave in. My daily three hour bliss before the day gets ugly from traffic and bosses and tourists and ting.

2.9 @ 17secs from 200


At 3:14 PM, Blogger Bill said...

keep rubbin it in man

At 6:00 PM, Blogger ras said...

man haffi work if 'im want a ting. push get nuff -seen. him nah watch nuh face -gwaan man an sleep till da mornin light, push a catch wave sade way.

At 7:10 PM, Blogger warm jet said...

1st light love.

At 3:20 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Push - spot on observations again!

At 2:30 PM, Anonymous Jay said...

Hey, now that I think about it, I'm gonna start going that early!!! Thanks for information man. See ya tomorrow morning! I will be in my hummer with 3 of my boys. Come say hi!

At 4:45 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

You say that now Jay but come tomorrow you'll be finally picking up your last boy at 9am and then have to fill up the hummer for the trip and then finally paddle out around 10. I'll be long gone.

I'll say hi next time.


At 10:47 AM, Anonymous Jay said...

HA! True.

I'm right there with you man, but I'm just saying that yappin about how to avoid the crowds on a blog that millions of yuppiehipsterhugesunglassesflatbilledcheckoutmynewmerrickandorangewetsuitbra can read every day is not the best idea.

Now, if only I could find out where you surf every morning is....

At 2:15 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

True Jay. That is always in the back of my mind. I've cut back on giving too many clues on the places I end up but I still should shut it.

Guess I still think no one reads this shit.


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