Kinda, almost, soon, tide turning, excuses.
Jewing altered snaps.
Well that was kinda fun in an overhyped way. Swell felt like it was always building but never quite got there. Most waves I was wishing for a couple more feet of size but beggars can’t be choosers. Lotsa kookies and teams of 4 dudes though. But when they would show up I’d already had my fill and leave.
This mornin’ was a classic North LA morn. Nothing special but a good sunrise, glassy, small swell hangin’ around and not many heads around.
On a more shitty note, got a postcard ad thing plastered on my car on Sunday. Pimping some new surf forecasting site, like we fuckin’ need more of those. Won’t even name the site because hopefully no one will go look and please do your part in not naming it either. Maybe they’ll leave. Scrub it kook. It even has pictures of many out of the way Malibu to Ventura spots. Fuuuck. So glad my go to spot wasn’t on there. I was scared when I started looking at the pics. That shit is just not needed. It doesn’t help anyone and doubt the dudes running it will make any real money compared to the number of people they piss off. So piss off.
2.8 @14secs from 180
5 Comments:
love your blog! I just returned from Hawaii where I learned to surf a Stand Up Paddle board, surfing rules! Do you know where I can get a good deal on one in LA?
hahaahha, that is so funny it is not funny.
I was inside on a couple that a SUP got worked and paddle and 14' board went everywhere. Scary shit.
I got a good deal for you randy...don't surf a SUP and you won't get pounded!!!
I hate it when some guy in the line-up starts blabbing about an incoming swell. Just shut up. If you want to surf, then go to the beach every day. Maybe it will be good and maybe it won't. Persistence should be rewarded.
beautiful shots.
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