Tuesday, June 26, 2007


Tryin' hard to remember all the old swells. Oh how I miss ye.

Is there a more perfect position? Or more perfect line? A more perfect cutback? A more critical part of the wave.

No. Now pull in.

2.5 @ 9secs from 310

Saturday, June 23, 2007


Well....at least the ocean was warm in the South Bay.

3.9 @ 8secs from 320
1 of 100 out midday

Friday, June 22, 2007

Hootin' and hollerin'

Shit. Low stoke. The only thing that is keepin' it around is that I got on the list for the Patrick Trefz flick tonight. In Venice. Maybe get a sloppy just get wet surf before. Should be cool. Hippy dippy flick. Tall boy budweisers and hootin'. Some skate footy. Art. He takes some great pics! His movie should have the same feel.

An old school Trefz photo above. SC stylee.

2.9 @ 7secs from 320

Wednesday, June 20, 2007


6 acres. Up for grabs. Big dough. But. Your own deal. Take your boat to the city. Pick a side. Boat to Ocean Beach. Build a shapin' shack into the cliff at the south side of the small beach. Grow food. Have some animals. A lovely girl. Moonlit nights watchin' ocean liners barrel by as you enjoy your girl. Hope for a huge swell to wrap somehow in. Someday. Invite friends over to double the population. Try minin' it for ore. Sure that the ghosts of otter fur traders, who used it way back, haunt nightly. Stoked!

1.7 at 14 secs from 210
didn't check it

Tuesday, June 19, 2007


Surfed a pier over the weekend. Been awhile. Always a better sandbar. Peaky. Small. Familiar pier lines and contours. Tourists looking at you strange even early in the morning. Random hungover surfers checkin' it out.

Basically got skunked all weekend though. Forgot my wetty Sunday dawnie. Didn't even have a pair of trunks with me. Watched it for awhile and realized I wasn't missing much. But man if that happened on a good day... Maybe if I was a Dad I would have been luckier. Not my day. Congrats to all the stoked Dads who seemed to be enjoyin' themselves all day.

nothing at nothing from nothing.

Friday, June 15, 2007

Shacked Fathers

Hope you all get some pits somewhere somehow sometime this weekend. And smile while you are in 'em!

I'll be huntin' with all the Pops out there. South buoys ever so slightly risin'.

1.8 @ 12 secs from 180

Wednesday, June 13, 2007


...in the air. The next week. Who knows what will come besides small windswell and a small south. Yay. Times tough.

Soft and small again this mornin'. Too soft. Peaks that would just fizzle out and a cutback would leave you buried.

2.7 @ 11secs from 310
1st out

Tuesday, June 12, 2007


And quiet. Just when I thought I could read windswell. Buoys supposedly up. Local kid tellin' me last night he saw nothing. Nooo, I said, the buoys are up. Gonna be good this morn. Wrong. Sat in the predawn gray light. Reminded me of old summer days in Manhattan Beach. Small quick close out waves. Glass. Risin' up dumpers with no corners. How'd I surf these on my longer boards with less wave knowledge? No wonder I got mouthfuls of sand.

Beautifully warm morn and water but the waves weren't cooperatin'. Nothin' on the horizon. Gonna get grumpier. Need a surf trip.

6.1 @ 10secs from 283
1st and only dumbass out

Friday, June 08, 2007


She was so hot. Just a day ago. Sunny. Happy. Fruitful. Giving. Today she aged. And badly. Old. Fat. Bitter and a little angry. Bumpy and lumpy in all the wrong places. Her energy was down. I tried and tried to keep a smile and ride what Miss Tide was giving out but it wasn't much. Even my stoke couldn't overcome the boring morning. Ended up takin' off when she wasn't looking. Hope she don't pay no mind. I'll be back when you are in a better mood.

3.7 @ 7secs from 290

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Miss the Miss

The last couple I have been back with an ol’ flame. The ol’ lady. Miss Pullingtide. My go-to late winter/entire spring sandbar that has been incredible. She is still so giving and lovely. Yesterday I turned up at her waters edge a little sick and grumpy. She in turn was dirty and unorganized too. We fell in love all over again. Dirty lumps and peaks and rides. Angry aggression. Learnin’ and rememberin’ each other. We went at it over and over. Insatiable she was. Consistently throwin’ me in new positons with me stylin’ my way out of. and into, them. Kick out. Stoked and smilin’.

This morning she, and I, cleaned ourselves up. She still was workin’ hard still. Couldn’t get enough of each other. Still chest to head high. All alone both days while I could see groups clustered down the coastline. Sunny, offshore, lumpy, peaky, perky, consistent, love taps. 6 second energy can still get me excited. I hope she never goes away. And turns up the same next winter. Don’t change Miss Tide.

5.2 @ 6secs from 276
Just me and some dolphins

Sunday, June 03, 2007

Over the Moon

Ahhh it felt like this beautiful painting all weekend. Head high swell. More consistent that the last couple. Water warmin' up but that brings out the masses and with the masses comes the crowds. Gotta keep a sense of humor and just stoke yourself and then others.

Got to the spot at 5:03. See two cars and think a fisherman and maybe a surfer. Get closer and start to see bodies. And even more boards. Pass by seein' at least 5 heads. And don't see a buddies car so he'll add another one. 6 people? At 5 fuckin' AM. What? Maybe I still just tired. Hallucinatin'. Park and suit up and paddle out in the dark super low. Rocky heaven. Glassy lifts. And glides. Got a medium one as I kick out to see 7 surfers rollin' down the beach. Whhhhaaat? Comin' with 2or 3 is bad enough at spots that can't handle many but 3 or 4?! Thoughts of a great sesh are out the window before it even hit dawn. The morning foggy clouds just got a little thicker around me.

Gonna be jockeyin' and burnin' and boards a flyin' now. Bummed. Summer.

Paddle out and sit thru a long lull and still no one is close by. Did they paddle out? Lump on the horizon and let's go. Drop, pump, schick the lip, stall, glide, speed, step to the nose, almost, fast section, kick out smilin'. See all the 7 heads are just catchin' the inside section waves. Stoked! One or two come out over the next several hours but I have the pick of the outside set waves. Comin' in fairly consistent. Oil glass and long smooth walls. And then the masses and crowds come. 4 at a time. But I had my fill. Catch a swing wider and milk it for a bit to a belly ride smack off the 2" lip to a fins in the sand stall. Great weekend of a fun little first June swelly.

3.4 @ 14secs from 190

Friday, June 01, 2007

Ms. June

Super low tide at the spot I hit. Hoped the swell was hitting overnight. Rushed down to see a lot of rocks and not much swell as dawn crept in. Sat on the beach skipping rocks and stretching and hoping and being bored. Fuck it, I am here, it's early, better paddle out. See a buddy strolling way down the beach, joins me and now us two heads are bobbing on the way inside. Never sat off of this rock before.Not much. Then hour by hour a little more would come in. Signs of fun navel highers. Outside rock workin'. Some quick zippers and lotsa laughs. In the middle of a metropolis on a Friday morning trading off waves all alone. Damn, dawn turned out okay this mornin'.

Man I hope my sweet sexy lady June brings us much more than that tease May.

2.6 @ 17secs from 295
1st out