Tuesday, June 12, 2007

Peace



And quiet. Just when I thought I could read windswell. Buoys supposedly up. Local kid tellin' me last night he saw nothing. Nooo, I said, the buoys are up. Gonna be good this morn. Wrong. Sat in the predawn gray light. Reminded me of old summer days in Manhattan Beach. Small quick close out waves. Glass. Risin' up dumpers with no corners. How'd I surf these on my longer boards with less wave knowledge? No wonder I got mouthfuls of sand.

Beautifully warm morn and water but the waves weren't cooperatin'. Nothin' on the horizon. Gonna get grumpier. Need a surf trip.

6.1 @ 10secs from 283
1st and only dumbass out

3 Comments:

At 11:59 AM, Blogger Rick said...

Man I feel the smae way. Bouys were up yesrteday, took my first sick day ever to surf all day. Check the usual spots - not showing anywhere. were the bouys lying? drove up to a far off beach break in the evening. heavy rain all the way there. surfed chopped up, closed out shorepound for two hours. caught a few good ones. got worked. smiles. can't wait for those hurricanes.

 
At 11:33 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Dude,

I'm in a rut as well. I got new boards on the way that just seem to be stuck in the glass shop. I missed the last week of swells. I need to break the curse. I have lost my stoke.

 
At 10:02 PM, Blogger Doc said...

There's something to be said about mouthfuls of sand...

A steady intake of minerals is supposedly good for you...

Although eating dirt gets old.

Sounds like Surf in Oregon today...

 

Post a Comment

<< Home