Over the Moon

Ahhh it felt like this beautiful painting all weekend. Head high swell. More consistent that the last couple. Water warmin' up but that brings out the masses and with the masses comes the crowds. Gotta keep a sense of humor and just stoke yourself and then others.



Got to the spot at 5:03. See two cars and think a fisherman and maybe a surfer. Get closer and start to see bodies. And even more boards. Pass by seein' at least 5 heads. And don't see a buddies car so he'll add another one. 6 people? At 5 fuckin' AM. What? Maybe I still just tired. Hallucinatin'. Park and suit up and paddle out in the dark super low. Rocky heaven. Glassy lifts. And glides. Got a medium one as I kick out to see 7 surfers rollin' down the beach. Whhhhaaat? Comin' with 2or 3 is bad enough at spots that can't handle many but 3 or 4?! Thoughts of a great sesh are out the window before it even hit dawn. The morning foggy clouds just got a little thicker around me.

Gonna be jockeyin' and burnin' and boards a flyin' now. Bummed. Summer.

Paddle out and sit thru a long lull and still no one is close by. Did they paddle out? Lump on the horizon and let's go. Drop, pump, schick the lip, stall, glide, speed, step to the nose, almost, fast section, kick out smilin'. See all the 7 heads are just catchin' the inside section waves. Stoked! One or two come out over the next several hours but I have the pick of the outside set waves. Comin' in fairly consistent. Oil glass and long smooth walls. And then the masses and crowds come. 4 at a time. But I had my fill. Catch a swing wider and milk it for a bit to a belly ride smack off the 2" lip to a fins in the sand stall. Great weekend of a fun little first June swelly.

3.4 @ 14secs from 190