Thursday, October 30, 2008


Foggy mornings late last week into early this week. Lovin' it. But damn that dawn light don't break as early anymore. I LIVE for this shot of the sun comin' up. Makes me whole. Makes me stoked. Makes the day a goodie.

Didn't make it out the last couple. No need really, would rather remember the good and not taint the memory with this weeks' junk.

1.5 @14secs from 180

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Semi Homespun The End

So I goopily glassed it very thick and heavy. Lots of resin sandin' down shavin' off pounds. A couple different colored resin buckets of mess and destruction and out she came. A little 5'1X21X2 2/3" of fishy delight. Fun, fun, fun in beachbreak, like ridin' a bronco if there is any windbump on the waves, and it flies through sections at the points. So here she is all bundled and taped up because she made the cut on a recent Mex trip last year. Love Mex.

Deep sunrise session the last day tryin' to beat the departin' plane almost made the best session of the trip (better than the long point olas even). Punchy chest high Mexican glassy beachbreak is where this board came alive! The V and the thin rails really helpin' out digging that rail. I think. Your senses are always sketching in a different country in the early dawn. People in the shadows and big shadows in the ocean. Then you feel that warm sea and all your worries are gone.

Because of my super thick resin job, the board even made it home with only one ding. Nice! This guy perfectly sums up the feelin' and vibe of the whole trip down south...taco n' cervesa fatted up, sunny warmth, dippin' boardshorts, surfin' stoked, and just barely gettin' out of it in one piece.

2.4 @14secs from 190

Friday, October 24, 2008


Yellow gold floaters and mushy reform schwacks on the super high tide. Swell kinda comin' in. Maybe I picked the wrong spot but I wanted a mellow long ridin' Friday. First out in the beautiful barely orange horizon sky in the east mixin' with the dark starry sky in the west, with the moon straight above. Notice Orion is barely hangin' on in the pre-dawn sky these days. You can't buy that view as only a surfer knows. Late October it is 80 degrees out and 60+ degree water, I love LA.

Man it will be soooooo fun in about an hour. Happy Surfin' Friday!!

2.9 @ 17secs from 190

Thursday, October 23, 2008


Walkin' and glidin' in the gold dawn light. Small and pleasant.

Knew the morn would be a goodie once I drove by Pepperdine and the strains of a Congos heavy dub tune crackled thru 88.7 for about 2 minutes and then was gone. Probably some dudes reggae show from his dorm room.

2.2 @ 14secs from 190

Wednesday, October 22, 2008


Got down to the shore yesterday and was just going to jump in the ocean when I noticed a seagull flopping around. He was scared of me but could not fly away so I put down my board to investigate. Noticed he had a fishing hook in his foot and the fishing line was connected to wrapping around his beak. Everytime he tried to open his mouth it would pull the hook in farther! I looked around for a lifeguard but there was none so I rounded up the little guy to see what I could do. He was pissed and flopping around but I held him close and petted his head. The hook was lodged in his foot pretty good and I couldn't get it out with him flopping all around, plus I knew it probably hurt a ton when I was pulling on it. So I unraveled the line from around his beak and around his tongue (which was being sliced with every pull of his foot). So sad.

After that he was "free", in a way, and flew off a bit, I could still see him hobling down the beach but at least he can fly and eat. I really hope he was able to get the hook out later on in the day somehow. I had such a gross feeling in my stomach thinking about him and how much he was, and probably still is, hurting. But I was glad that at least I caught the little guy and helped him somewhat. Sad.

Then I see the Warbles post today of him finding almost the exact same thing yesterday to another beautiful bird only this time it was too late. Strange coincidental occurrences along the coast on the same day around the same time.

Caught some nice South lines this morn for all the downed birds. Crisp offshores at a spot that doesn't get offshores usually. Beautiful sunrise. Beautiful day.

2.1 @14secs from 195

Monday, October 20, 2008


Loggin' like Kenny all weekend. Small warbly near empty spots up North. Crisp water and crisp air. Crispy face at work today.

A new feelin' I wanted, so I only took my only log with me. Homebuilt in around '05. It was a reshaped bigger longboard that I had been given to me by a buddy. Striped the foam off and copied a Brewer pintail shape. I glassed it all red because it seemed like every Brewer board is cool red. Early on in the shapin', I sanded too hard and broke off the nose so she finally turned out about 8 inches shorter, at 7'1". Hey, its still a long ass longboard for me!

This is my only watershot of the Fake Brewer Red Beast, 7'1"x21 3/8x2 3/4. Looks like an ode to the rad jdubsingles site with this board and wave pic.

1.9 @ 17secs from 200

Thursday, October 16, 2008


Last coupla days tryin' to hold onto my summertime spot. Fatty tide Wednesday. Fatty tide coupled with a mornin' fatty today. Made it a tad better. Perfect sunrise again. Warmish air. Stoney stoke. Peelin' small lines. Smilin' and laughin' with a buddy. Trading boards. Gimmie mine back. Fishin' fun as always.

How fuckin' awesome it this pic. Winter. Soon come.

2.3 @ 14 secs from 190

Thursday, October 09, 2008


Even Torre surfs. Never leave the hat at home.

Kinda fun. Kinda walled. Kinda cold. Kinda smokey sunrise. Buoys look HUGE above Point Conception.

3.1 @ 11secs from 310

Monday, October 06, 2008



On fixing those dings well.
On makin’ that fish fly again.
On making it out at o’dark thirty 7 days in a row.
On catchin’ overhead swell for half of those days.
On making a lot of good drops.
On not kooking out too hard.
On sweating in your 3/2 in October.
On hidin' from them crowds.
And congrats on bitin’ a Surf in Oregon post.


3.4 @ 17secs from 205

Friday, October 03, 2008


Forgot how much I have missed beachbreak! I am pretty much a pointbreak summer surfer and a beachbreak winter surfer. Mellow vs thumpin'. Calm walls vs steep walls. Slow takeoffs vs get the fuck to your feet and go takeoffs!

The last two days I reunited with my wintertime friend. The sandbars have held up fairly well, moved just a tad. Had a lot of waves like the snap above. Hang onto the fast wall and try to not get the clampdown. Lovin' it. Fish was lovin' it. The windswell combined with the small south swell combined with the punchy west swell made for some nonstop fun the last two days. Plus only a couple out. Noodly armed and stringy legged and stoked head.

4.0 @ 12secs from 290