Thursday, October 16, 2008


Last coupla days tryin' to hold onto my summertime spot. Fatty tide Wednesday. Fatty tide coupled with a mornin' fatty today. Made it a tad better. Perfect sunrise again. Warmish air. Stoney stoke. Peelin' small lines. Smilin' and laughin' with a buddy. Trading boards. Gimmie mine back. Fishin' fun as always.

How fuckin' awesome it this pic. Winter. Soon come.

2.3 @ 14 secs from 190


At 1:43 PM, Blogger Christian said...

I know what you mean about winter. I want it to mack.

At 10:39 AM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

I love your way with words. What a happy post.

At 12:09 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

You stay away from that spot.

At 10:07 AM, Blogger Flying said...

nice point break, and a right hander too !
I'd like to see that in my land of lefts...
aloha from spain

At 10:10 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Dammit Anonymous. Guess I'll return that RV I rented and not go by the local college to pick up the first 10 surfers I saw. We were going to have so much fun at that point! Oh well.



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