Friday, October 03, 2008


Forgot how much I have missed beachbreak! I am pretty much a pointbreak summer surfer and a beachbreak winter surfer. Mellow vs thumpin'. Calm walls vs steep walls. Slow takeoffs vs get the fuck to your feet and go takeoffs!

The last two days I reunited with my wintertime friend. The sandbars have held up fairly well, moved just a tad. Had a lot of waves like the snap above. Hang onto the fast wall and try to not get the clampdown. Lovin' it. Fish was lovin' it. The windswell combined with the small south swell combined with the punchy west swell made for some nonstop fun the last two days. Plus only a couple out. Noodly armed and stringy legged and stoked head.

4.0 @ 12secs from 290


At 11:06 AM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

This was opening day for me. I must say, I had a blast as well. So nice to actually have a real paddle out with duck dives and everything for a change.

At 5:53 PM, Blogger Watson said...

It was flat up here today in SF after the high tide. Dude did you rotate that photo to make it look double overhead? Come on be honest. Thanks for checking out the site.

At 10:21 AM, Blogger Bill said...


At 6:20 AM, Blogger sealegs said...

mad wave. now that is a steep face.


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