Tuesday, September 09, 2008


J. Mallman snap.

Damn clouds lettin' all the sleepyheads wake up late and crowd up the lineup. I miss those 30 minutes you can get if there are no clouds and the dawnlight shows sooner. Oh well, it was a super fun morning.

First out in the dark, snaggin' a couple. The crowd comes and I am in a rhythm. For once, the crowds didn't throw me off. Didn't get in my head. Caught one of the big sets at the end and swooped and looped forever 'til I stepped off on the sand. Two hours of chest high olas. Stoked. A couple heads walking down the trail as I got out saw my homemade and said "Good wave. Man, we are groovin' on that shape". Stoked! Made up for a comment last week out at a south bay beachbreak, 15 year old kid in the water says "what is that? that is not a surfboard is it?" ha!

3.4 @ 14secs from 210


At 8:18 AM, Blogger Patch said...

Home cookin'!

At 1:45 AM, Blogger Bogus said...

please send me an email at the one listed on my profile...


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