Friday, August 25, 2006

Super inconsistent

Sucks. Too low of a tide. Also sucks.

Dark paddle out, first out, second car along the side of the road. Yeah! Too dark to judge the waves or the lineup. Misread one. Misread two. Then nothing for about 30 minutes. Couple small rides, lots of waiting and waiting. 2 1/2 hours later, trying to decide whether to paddle in with my fish tail between my legs, snag a medium one, pump it thru both sections and made it to the last section! Stepped off in a foot of water, took two steps and was on the beach.

Too steep of a swell and just not much power from the Hurricane (I-something) down in NZ.

Very steep and island shaded.

2.8@14 from 175 and 3.0@12 from 160.

Thursday, August 24, 2006


No not the herb. As in no waves. As in waking up at 4:15 after being out at a show all night. As in expecting the south swell to hit. As in sitting out there for 2 hours and maybe catching two thigh high no energy waves.

It is a shitty thing when you realize you are halfway thru a skunked session. Do you turn and go in? Or do you stay out and just hope the new signs of the swell will hit. An hour or so into it, you have seen the sets, you have seen the biggest waves, you know nothing else is coming in. It is the worst feeling. Only one out for all two hours. Besides a seal and a couple of dolphins. Beautiful sunrise glassy warm morning at Point Pants but.....

What happened? Should have checked the buoys. Tomorrow?

1.5 @ 12secs from 180

Friday, August 18, 2006


Small. Only me and a bud. One chest high set wave every 45 minutes. Lots of paddling and scrounging for small ones on the inside. Tide going up. Lined up at the inside rock so you know it was small. Good to get wet though. Foggy morn.

2.0 @ 12 @ 185.

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Gone swelly gone.

So long south. You've been a fun one. Got the last bits of it this morning at Pants Point. Chest high+ sets every 15 minutes with just the old chinese guy out. Beautiful morning again. Full moon dipping behind Point Dume at 5:30am. Lovely. Milked some mediumish rides. Got some little walls and some pathetic whacks.

2.1-2.3 @ 14 sec from 220

Til next time we meet Miss South!

Tuesday, August 08, 2006

Solo Point

Ahhhh. Huge full moon dippin' into the sea at 4:45. Paddle out at 5:15 in the near darkness alone. Snag a couple short punchy rides alone. Watch the sunrise alone. Dolphins pop up next to me. Snag a couple more. Biff a set wave b/c of the low tide making them close out. Suck. Snag a couple long ones, again alone. First dude joins me an hour and half later! Niiiice. Get a couple more. It gets crowded, haha, 5 people. Belly in the last one unfortunately just couldn't get up and around the whitewater. Too late to paddle back out. Hop on the PCH and get to work.

Ahhhh. Surfing.

2.9 at 14secs from 175. Minus tide an hour before paddling out. Made for closeouts. Swell still hangin' on.

Sunday, August 06, 2006


Big new raw swell at Point Pants.

3.4-3.6 @ 17 sec from 195.

Long windblown lulls. Longest ride to date at Point Pants was had. Flew thru the flats. Made sections. Barely hung on the whitewater drop. Energy. Rode it to between the 2nd and 1st house closest to the pink shack! Amazing. Paddled back out with 30 minutes of daylight left and sat and sat and sat, caught a little one, and sat and sat and had to embarassingly paddle back in. All the way in to the white houses because of the extreme full moon 6.1 high tide.

Tired and STOKED!!!