Tuesday, August 08, 2006

Solo Point

Ahhhh. Huge full moon dippin' into the sea at 4:45. Paddle out at 5:15 in the near darkness alone. Snag a couple short punchy rides alone. Watch the sunrise alone. Dolphins pop up next to me. Snag a couple more. Biff a set wave b/c of the low tide making them close out. Suck. Snag a couple long ones, again alone. First dude joins me an hour and half later! Niiiice. Get a couple more. It gets crowded, haha, 5 people. Belly in the last one unfortunately just couldn't get up and around the whitewater. Too late to paddle back out. Hop on the PCH and get to work.

Ahhhh. Surfing.

2.9 at 14secs from 175. Minus tide an hour before paddling out. Made for closeouts. Swell still hangin' on.


Post a Comment

<< Home