Thursday, August 24, 2006


No not the herb. As in no waves. As in waking up at 4:15 after being out at a show all night. As in expecting the south swell to hit. As in sitting out there for 2 hours and maybe catching two thigh high no energy waves.

It is a shitty thing when you realize you are halfway thru a skunked session. Do you turn and go in? Or do you stay out and just hope the new signs of the swell will hit. An hour or so into it, you have seen the sets, you have seen the biggest waves, you know nothing else is coming in. It is the worst feeling. Only one out for all two hours. Besides a seal and a couple of dolphins. Beautiful sunrise glassy warm morning at Point Pants but.....

What happened? Should have checked the buoys. Tomorrow?

1.5 @ 12secs from 180


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