Friday, March 28, 2008

Happiness is surfin' with friends (sometimes)

Apologies to the person who made these t-shirts awhile ago, I forget, but I love 'em. Says it all from this Friday mornin'.

Usually hate waitin' for my lazy friends but I told a buddy to meet me there by 5:30am or I am gone. Guess I could wait a little longer for my bud since he had buds. Slight bit of lighter blue sky appearing as I sat on the beach gettin' anxious to just go surf. Lone dark figure trotting down the beach turns out to be him. No way, he is only minutes late. Spliffin' while starin' at the droppin' bright moon. South lines comin' in. Paddle out and grab a dark one right away, felt like I was going 100 mph and I was so connected to the curve of the wave. Glassy. Chest high on the sets. Inconsistent but when there are only a couple out, no worries. Stoney thoughtful fishin' session. Beautiful sunrise. Beautiful long lines. Stokin' session.

2.4 @ 18secs from 180

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Time Change

This is how you make a surf statue! Look at that great drop knee turn. Hands up. Throwin' spray into a fountain. Proper! Hermosa Beach ain't no Cardiff. A least one beach town gets it.

Although, what comes with that cool statue will be an ugly demolition and remodel of Pier Ave. I love surfing Hermosa every so often when it gets peaky. It will be sad to surf the pier looking back at the demolition soon of the great old school bars like Poopdeck and the Mermaid. Couple of years from now it will be even worse surfing the pier looking at the typical boxy loft style apartments with overpriced art and clothes shops below. No more small little town beach feel. No more cheap rentals. No more Pennywise. Everything changes I guess. But I wish it wouldn't.

Southie here. Fun lines. More soon.

2.4 @20secs from 235

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Foggy Droppy Swelly

Two shitty things happened this morning. A thick fog blocked the predawn light makin' it tough to see anything until almost 7. And the swell backed off way more than I expected. At least it was quiet except for my buddy the sea lion for an hour or so in the dark. Orion. Big Dipper. Stars everywhere.

During a long lull, I was rollin' out there laughing to myself of a quote from a kooky local a couple weeks back. He was flailing and dropping in on everything and fallin' and kookin' on his 10'6"+ board. I am out on my fishy grabbing non-stop waves, havin' a blast. He huffs and puffs up to me after paddling back from a wave, which he barely made the drop and unsteadily stood on his board for 50 yards, and says "How long's that board you are riding?" 5'4" I say and he shoots back, "welllll, that's your problem".

What? Yeah I guess that is my problem. A lovely one.

2.0 @ 14secs from 180

Wednesday, March 12, 2008


Snaps from a buddy of a buddy of a buddy. Scorin' up North.

Man listen it was fun this morn. Again, where were all the heads? Not that I am complaining AT ALL. Just feel so lucky to be able to paddle out in the predawn starry darkness lookin' to score some before the crowds and then seeing the sun come up and I am still scorin' without the crowds and then I rip one to the beach and look around to see that I scored all morning without the crowds. Strange angle made the waves peel fast. Low tide. 18+ second power. Good sets. Good sea lion. Good sunrise. Good schwacks. Good glides. Good day!

3.4 @ 18secs from 195

Thursday, March 06, 2008


Santa Barbara hill dweller, Paul Cumes, his paintin' explains it all the last couple of days. Just add another fin to that board.

Seriously, where the hell is everyone?! It has been close to perfect all week if you disregard the 5+ foot tide mushiness. Love this off the way spot on the high tides. The backwash actually makes some steep sections after you have been mushin' it for 200 yards. Sunny warm water mornin' sessions with no one around. Guess everyone doesn't work around here and can wait out the tide but I would rather get it mushy and alone then faster and jockeyin' for waves. And the little fishy takes care of makin' the mush fun.

Stoked. Weird feeling walkin' back up to the car and seeing some lady is struggling to get in the front seat of her car all while holding her wheel chair. Then she has to lean down and fold it up and somehow get it in the car. My stoked smile faded and I felt kind of selfish thinkin' how lucky I am to be so happy in the mornings. To be able to get up in the early dawn and have fun and run around and paddle and surf while it takes some others in this world a long tough time just to get into a car.

3.7 @ 14 secs from 185