Happiness is surfin' with friends (sometimes)
Apologies to the person who made these t-shirts awhile ago, I forget, but I love 'em. Says it all from this Friday mornin'.
Usually hate waitin' for my lazy friends but I told a buddy to meet me there by 5:30am or I am gone. Guess I could wait a little longer for my bud since he had buds. Slight bit of lighter blue sky appearing as I sat on the beach gettin' anxious to just go surf. Lone dark figure trotting down the beach turns out to be him. No way, he is only minutes late. Spliffin' while starin' at the droppin' bright moon. South lines comin' in. Paddle out and grab a dark one right away, felt like I was going 100 mph and I was so connected to the curve of the wave. Glassy. Chest high on the sets. Inconsistent but when there are only a couple out, no worries. Stoney thoughtful fishin' session. Beautiful sunrise. Beautiful long lines. Stokin' session.
2.4 @ 18secs from 180