Friday, April 24, 2009

Think and Hunt

Pulled up in the foggy dark just as this irie Burning Spear song came on called Happy Day. Yes indeed! Skankin' in the dark in my wetsuit always starts my day right.

Don't draw violence...
Think for yourself...
Solve your own problems...
You can be a trip to know...

Love the words.

Huntin' around always helps on these hyped swells. Still couldn't be alone after 7am though. No matta 'cause got nuff long rides for the two hours before that.

But had to yell at a dude, first time in a long time if ever. Big outside set comes in and I am paddling out behind him. He ducks and lets his board go. "Hold yer board!" and he looks at me and continues to paddle. Next wave of the set and the fucker does it again. "FUCKYOU! Hold onto your fucking board. It ain't that fucking hard". So pissed. Don't want to miss out on summer because I have a gash on my head from some kook longboard fuck. Well, guess I didn't totally heed Spear's good words but it was necessary.

4.5 @ 17secs from 190

Monday, April 06, 2009


Punchy south the last couple days. Good to get some souths again.

Mostly had to be confined to gross, touristy, dirty Hollywood. Saw a yellow pintail gun in a tourist shop up on the wall. And it seems like the G.L.S.A., lead by the Marshall Brothers, were in town there recently as well! How the hell did they shimmy up that high up sign to throw that sticker?!

Good to at least feel some surf in the middle of soul sucking Hollywood.

2.8 @ 17secs from 195