Friday, April 24, 2009

Think and Hunt


Pulled up in the foggy dark just as this irie Burning Spear song came on called Happy Day. Yes indeed! Skankin' in the dark in my wetsuit always starts my day right.

Don't draw violence...
Think for yourself...
Solve your own problems...
You can be a trip to know...

Love the words.

Huntin' around always helps on these hyped swells. Still couldn't be alone after 7am though. No matta 'cause got nuff long rides for the two hours before that.

But had to yell at a dude, first time in a long time if ever. Big outside set comes in and I am paddling out behind him. He ducks and lets his board go. "Hold yer board!" and he looks at me and continues to paddle. Next wave of the set and the fucker does it again. "FUCKYOU! Hold onto your fucking board. It ain't that fucking hard". So pissed. Don't want to miss out on summer because I have a gash on my head from some kook longboard fuck. Well, guess I didn't totally heed Spear's good words but it was necessary.


4.5 @ 17secs from 190

9 Comments:

At 1:25 PM, Blogger mike@waveridersgallery.net said...

Real loggers don't ditch cause we don't wear cords, it aint a "longboard" thing, it's a kook thing.

 
At 1:36 PM, Blogger warm jet said...

i'm sure it was a hp longboard surftech.
sounds like you may have been where i and the rest of 3 counties was?
i been hit in the head twice in 2 days by kook longboarders.
can't count the number that dropped on me. but did grab the noses and heave.
brutal place.

 
At 2:07 PM, Anonymous dayoftheeagle said...

Nother day
Nother night
I wanna love
They wanna fight

 
At 2:10 PM, Blogger pushingtide said...

Definitely not a longboard thing, but those do the most damage.

WJ, maybe, it was a very bland board.

Most packed day all year everywhere...should set the alarm another 30mins earlier tomorrow to get some and get out.

 
At 6:48 PM, Blogger Christian said...

Same thing happened to me earlier in the week. I let the dude have it, but like your experience, the dude just stared at me with a blank expression. Some people have no clue other than what they've learned while watching Point Break.

I ride a log fairly often and I think that they should never ever be made with leash plugs. FVCK leashes on logs.

 
At 9:16 PM, Blogger nm said...

bummer when angry energy invades your surf...


word ver = unrot

hee!

 
At 11:04 AM, Blogger Doc said...

I paddled out the other day...
It was small, so LB & no leash...
I watched literally every other surfer in view strap on cords...
Some of them did extensive stretching to boot...
Extreme yoga moves & bmental visualization exercises...
Anyway, I am paddling out...
A guy catches a decent wave...
He can surf, but at the end of the wave just bails...
The board beelines towards me and I brace for impact...
It missed me but I was a bit pissed...
Same deal tho, blank stare, complete lack of understanding.

 
At 10:23 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

time for a new post mr pushingtide. get us through this flat spell. feed me.

 
At 3:18 PM, Blogger Danimal said...

I yell at kooks all the time. Fuck 'em.

They always get pissed at me for pointing out that they can't surf and don't know what they are doing.

They think that I am making fun of them, when in reality I am trying to educate them as to maintain a somewhat safe lineup...while making fun of them. You gotta throw in a few jabs.

 

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