Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Get It

Just good skankin' fun out there today. Head high and fresh. The 5-6 hour was hard offshore, the 6-7 hour had a slight bump to it, and the final 1/2 hour was blown out and junky. Felt like I surfed 3 different spots today. Cool to see the lifeguards going out in a dingy just as I was getting out. They looked stoked as they were blasting through the whitewash.

Love surfin' in the the rainy mist. Some good juice to the swell.

4.1 @ 17secs from 205


At 12:20 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

early bird gets the worm

At 4:33 PM, Blogger ras said...

iration every time

At 4:52 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

i gotta close the drapes.....


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