Feelin' Foam
After that grand run of swell I have been a fairly lazy bum. Not risin' early in the morn. Not gettin' in the water. And not doing much. So I finally started to shave down my blank. Ahhh hot damn that feels good runnin' your hands along freshly cut foam.
Shapin' and surfing's such a perfect match. You make what you feel. And you feel what you make.
1.3 @ 8 secs from 305
6 Comments:
well said. rideing what you shaped adds so much. im now hopelessly addicted.
Damn Push, now you got me thinking on shaping a board.
at first glance i thought the shot of the foam rail was an underwater shot from behind the cylinder— a single pic that opens a dual perception... perfectly illustrates, "You make what you feel. And you feel what you make."
Oh shit, ol' Winey is back updating his site?!
And yeah RT, I thought this was a very RT kinda post.
hands...
Push--I saw your comment about Surfstrait on NM's blog and am with you. I thought her blog was heartfelt and really candid and miss it too. There's no doubt she was dealing with a lot of trauma, and she let us know as much as she wound her blog down. I never met her surfing up here, but I hope she's doing good and the dive business is rocking. All the best.
David
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