Saturday, January 17, 2009

Surfer


Medium sized fun beautifully sunny day in LA. Warm air and crisp water is a perfect combo. Took out the 5'8" homemade single for a different kick.

Surfed with the kneeboarder again who is stoked on a altered twin fin which he carved out this trippy tail. He would just drop so late and grab the highline so fast on it.

Amazing thing is that he only has one leg. He crawls out of the water over to his crutches. Then he balances his board and hobbles the 1/2 mile walk to the car. Such an inspiration every time I see him. Always give a wave and never take your life for granted.

4.1 @ 20secs from 285

11 Comments:

At 3:22 PM, Blogger Thom said...

Sick shot and a great message...

 
At 6:41 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

fantastic.

 
At 6:53 PM, Blogger Bill said...

Amen to that.

 
At 7:24 PM, Blogger Doc said...

Frothy

 
At 10:55 PM, Blogger nm said...

wow

and...

wave away

 
At 11:57 PM, Blogger jesse said...

this picture rules!

 
At 1:49 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I gave waves this morning since I was on a crutch board - I was rewarded by a last wave of the session BOMB that held up all the way through, what a great way to start the day.

Glad that guy is still able to get his stoke on.

 
At 10:09 AM, Blogger Mr. Lentini said...

is that venice breakwater?

 
At 3:05 PM, Anonymous Q.Perps said...

dude. i am so hurting. i need water so badly. been at least 3 weeks since my last session. my gills are dry.

 
At 11:27 AM, Blogger R.T. said...

that photo is all time!

big ups to the late-drop-highliner with one leg!

 
At 5:07 PM, Blogger Erik Hakon Olson (EHO) said...

Wow... bonkers photo!

Inspiring.

 

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