Surfer
Medium sized fun beautifully sunny day in LA. Warm air and crisp water is a perfect combo. Took out the 5'8" homemade single for a different kick.
Surfed with the kneeboarder again who is stoked on a altered twin fin which he carved out this trippy tail. He would just drop so late and grab the highline so fast on it.
Amazing thing is that he only has one leg. He crawls out of the water over to his crutches. Then he balances his board and hobbles the 1/2 mile walk to the car. Such an inspiration every time I see him. Always give a wave and never take your life for granted.
4.1 @ 20secs from 285
11 Comments:
Sick shot and a great message...
fantastic.
Amen to that.
Frothy
wow
and...
wave away
this picture rules!
I gave waves this morning since I was on a crutch board - I was rewarded by a last wave of the session BOMB that held up all the way through, what a great way to start the day.
Glad that guy is still able to get his stoke on.
is that venice breakwater?
dude. i am so hurting. i need water so badly. been at least 3 weeks since my last session. my gills are dry.
that photo is all time!
big ups to the late-drop-highliner with one leg!
Wow... bonkers photo!
Inspiring.
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