Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Soces


"It was all private land then and fenced off, but Phillips tolerated us climbing through his barrier to surf and dive as long as we didn’t disturb his cattle and other livestock on the beach. No other surfers went there. His house was where the lifeguard building is now. We eventually changed the name to Sequit after the Arroyo Sequit canyon that meets the beach there." - Mr. Porter

Surfed four points. Two different homemades. And one spectacular South. Did my part by not blabbing, 'net nor cellphone. The super dawn going to low tide darkish blue mornings blew my mind. Solo. Alone. Pumpin'. Only shared with others once 6:45am came around. Consistent enough for waves and smiles all around. Beautiful sunsets burnin' smog. Obviously Monday was the best.


2.4 @ 11secs from 225

5 Comments:

At 8:08 AM, Blogger Christian said...

Man, I love that place.

 
At 8:50 AM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

I'll take the little spot at the other end of that beach. ;-)

 
At 10:22 AM, Blogger cammar said...

Thanks for the comment on my blog. I really like your style and will follow your blog.

4@11secs from 30

 
At 1:16 PM, Blogger ridgeback said...

in 73 i got my first board and went to zuma a few times for a proper thumping. then my mom got smart and took me to "sequit".imediatly everything clicked and i was riding real waves, not whitewater.stoked out of my mind. alot of summer days as a kid there never forget.also that little rocky bay to the right.summer fun. yeah

 
At 7:45 PM, Blogger Mr. Lentini said...

secos..amazing even at 1 foot

 

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