Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Gimmie More

I'm battered, I'm stoked out
I'm black and I'm blueeee
Give me my swell back
And I'll start lovin' you

You give me your lovin'
I give you a ride
Oh please don't tie me
Down to that damn tide

Was all up in my head all morn in the small lovely olas.

2.0 @12secs from 170

Monday, July 27, 2009


Today was perfect. Chest high leftovers with no one out. Just as I thought. Well, one other dude came out, but not 'til 7am. By then, I was tired of the long peelers.

Wow, what a swell. I'm battered. I'm stoked out. Haven't felt that power since a couple winters ago. Paid for it on the early part of this swell though. After a month of being too sick, too lazy, too much late night revelry, and no surf...my arms were slow to paddle. Feet were slow to set. But when they did, man it was wooooosh.

RIP wedge surfer Mr. Valantin.

2.2 @ 14secs from 195

Thursday, July 16, 2009


Oh to be him. How you gonna surf this big wall in front of your eyes? The wave is yours. Get on with it!

But yet I am me. How long am I gonna go without surf with some size. The world is yours. Let's get on with it!

South not really hittin' when I was out. Summertime good times.

1.3 @ 14 secs from 190

Wednesday, July 08, 2009


Saw this the other day when I was way inland. Raddest photographer out there now. By far. New school takin' knowledge from the old school. You throwin' up tags now Morgan?!

Fun lil souths lately. But want more. Always!

1.6 @ 14secs from 200