Wednesday, September 26, 2007
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Been away. Inland. Way inland. No board. No wetsuit. No wax smell. No resin smell. No foamdust. No cool ocean. No ridin' energy. Just beautiful sky and beatiful land. Fly fishin' when not working. Raftin' on rivers trying to get on a little river wall. A small energy rush. Running around the hills looking for a bunch of trouble. Good people. Working on a flick. Montana.
Have to go away to pay the bills every once in awhile so when I get back home I go full on in the ocean. That initial feeling of getting back in the water after been dry for close to a month is an indescribable thing. Stoke! And there have been waves too. Yeah.
Now I just have to finish my newest creation. While surfin' on my cut down longboard is tricky and fun and all, i am in need of somethin' fresh. Yo.
2.5 @ 17secs from 215