Wednesday, September 26, 2007


Missed it this morn. Probably good still at certain spots. Out of shape from wakin' up late lately. Feel worthless sleepin' in when there are waves. Wish I made the trip in the pre-dawn fun.

Now I sit here at work and work. Dryly.

1.6 @ 14secs from 205

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Wide Sky

Been away. Inland. Way inland. No board. No wetsuit. No wax smell. No resin smell. No foamdust. No cool ocean. No ridin' energy. Just beautiful sky and beatiful land. Fly fishin' when not working. Raftin' on rivers trying to get on a little river wall. A small energy rush. Running around the hills looking for a bunch of trouble. Good people. Working on a flick. Montana.

Have to go away to pay the bills every once in awhile so when I get back home I go full on in the ocean. That initial feeling of getting back in the water after been dry for close to a month is an indescribable thing. Stoke! And there have been waves too. Yeah.

Now I just have to finish my newest creation. While surfin' on my cut down longboard is tricky and fun and all, i am in need of somethin' fresh. Yo.

2.5 @ 17secs from 215

Monday, September 24, 2007


Yep. Early darkness. Early light. Eerie fun in the eerie ocean.

Good to be back in the drinky.

2.4 @ 17secs from 220

Thursday, September 13, 2007