Enough

Fuckin' enough. Not even the lightnin' the other day could make our beloved points work. Some small olas mixed in but for the most part I've been dry for weeks. Dings are fixed. My feet cuts are fixed. Now my stoke needs to be fixed.

1.2 @ 11 from 185

Collector

Pinched from one of his droppin' knowledge sessions..."This is my Jackson 6'0" round nose, round tail, rolled S deck, flat bottom 'Egg' with 50/50 rails that go down at the tail. Short ... for quickness - thick for buoyant paddling and radical - with low soft rails for power surfing. The photo is of Laurie Byrne shaping this actual board at the Jackson factory in Taren Point in 1970 (possibly)."

Simply fucking amazing collection of history. Can't take credit for findin' this collection, but also can't remember where I saw the hot tip. All I know it is some Aussie who has a deep knowledge and love for the shapin' and surfin' history. From what I gather, he also loves and understands that a super short wide board can really go! His site is just incredible. Go check it at, what else, www.boardcollector.com. He even has a little email thingy to keep you updated on his new board finds.

Fuckin' cool mate.

1.2 @12secs from 185

Knosty Kicky

Kickouts from Beach Blanket Burnout. Whatever you think of Knost, he still has some stylee. This mornings weak waves had me goofin' around and thinkin' of kickouts. Trying to get my fish as high as I could in the air after my rides. Only do it when no one is around. Almost took off my head on a couple.

2.0 @ 14secs from 185

Dark Lights

This snap might look like nothing but it means everything. Brakelights in the darknight.

Fresh new south a couple weeks back. Pull up to the spot at stupid o’clock pre-dawn. Vaguely make out a van slowing down on the shoulder. Stops. Driver gets out. Okay, I’m sharin’ waves today. He pops the back door. Hmm, that is a lot of boards maybe he wants options. Passenger door opens. Fuck, another head hops out. Then another follows him. FUCK. Three surfers. Big longboards.

You know what happens in your head next. Please let me be imagining this. Tryin’ to stay stoked. Hopin’ they will be summer newbies who stay on the inside. But knowin’ either way, that there will be mornin’ traffic before the mornin’ traffic. Damn. Summer.


2.0 @ 12secs from 185

Pointin'

Nova Scotia


Caribbean


California


Morocco


Mex


My last vacation (just lovely inside section)


Different stokes for different folks.

1.9 @14secs from 180

History

1883 George Freeth was born
1900's Freeth is out surfin' on wooden planks while everyone else is scared of the mighty Pacific
1907 Freeth puts on a surfing show in Redondo to promote a new LA railway and everyone gets stoked.
1908 Freeth was titled "The First Man to Surf California"
1908-1919 Freeth surfed empty peaks, invented lifeguard saving devices, saved hundreds of people in the ocean.
1919 Freeth died from influenza from non-stop savin' people in the cold winter
2008 Freeth's bust statue stolen from Redondo. Maybe from some kids who blamed him for the insane crowds in California. More likely stolen by some kooks who needed a quick buck and don't know their surf history.

www.dailybreeze.com/news/ci_10127336?source=rss



Surf's been small but fun. Even rode a l-l-l-longboard for once. Nice to ride forever and easily on a big plank, but a little boring compared to fish.

2.2 @14secs from 185