Wednesday, January 31, 2007


Just startin' to coat the new foam.
Finally got the resin and glass.
Dug out the finboxes.
She is coming awake.
Not gonna make it in time for this swell comin'.
But she will glide sooooon.

2.3 @ 14secs from 290
Didn't check it.

Friday, January 26, 2007


Lumpy. Fresh. New swell showin'. Took the day off and enjoyed a West and a Southwest spot. 2 wonderfully different sessions. One had get on goin' down the line beachbreak/jetty waves and the afternoon had lazy-dazed point sliders. Kickout hard before the end closeout and standin' island style pullouts. Quick paddle out in the morn and long shoulder burners in the avro. High line in the dawn to fades in the afternoon. Head high plus to waist high peelers. Direct swell hit to a sheltered coast. Beachie and Points. Clear and Irie. Each session an equal to the other but on different plane. A total of 3 people surfed with both sessions. Sunburnt and Stoked.

It's been a very good Friday in Los Angeles.

4.9 @ 14 secs from 285 and risin'

UPDATE: Where'd the swell go? Came and went. Just like the tides. Amazing. Quickest big swell I have seen in awhile. South winds on it at pre-dawn and meager energy left at the point of our choosin'. Me and a ol' bud. Good to catch up in the gray dawn. Was so stoked to get up this morning too. Now it is raining. Glad I took yesterday off at least and played.

3.1 @ 12 secs from 290 and fallin'

Wednesday, January 24, 2007


What a day. What a coastline. What power. Intense. And real. Love headin' north.

Today. Not really. Mushy fun. Perfect weather. Flip flopped around while the parking lot crowds gathered down the way.

2.3 @ 11 secs from 305

Monday, January 22, 2007


Guinness and Olas.
Grinnin' and Laughs.
Gougin' and Loungin'
Ebullient and Electrified.
Erin go bragh. Just go brah.

Oh. Oh. This week in another world. Please bring it back to me.

Fun ones over the weekend. After the agitated and swelling crowd. Pushy windswell. Continual waves. Tired. Salted. Stoked. Only the ocean and me. Long rides at a loving sandbar. Years and years are paying off.

3.4 at 11 secs from 300

Friday, January 19, 2007


Oh my. Usually I try to post great snaps but sometimes it just isn’t possible. Got to post what I feel. What I felt. This pic is what I got this morn, what I mushed in, what I paddled for, what the onshoreish winds were doin’, what I sat and watched, what I wished I didn’t suit up for. But I had to. I made the call in my morning slumber. Put the board in the car and go, how bad could it be? Um, bad.

Weekend, however, could be fun at some spot if things work out how they should work out.

3.1 @ 11 secs from 305

Tuesday, January 16, 2007


Yesterday I walked over the stones, up the stony trail, took off my wetsuit, and drove up the 101. Stopped at the local Contest Store on Garden St. Talked for a bit and walked out 1000 bucks poorer.

But I rented out Rincon for the morn. From 6am til 8am. 500 an hour the chap told me. Sold.

So I had a contest the next day. Boards had to be 5 and a half and under. Twin fins, singles, shit throw a big center fin in there. Doesn't matter how many fins, how wide your board, how thick, wings, swallow or stub....just have it under a 5'6". Only rule was that everyone traded boards. Couldn't ride the board you brought.

Locals pissed but so what that they can't surf there for one day, one morning, a couple hours. Would be so fun to see that type of contest. 20 or so lucky souls. Maybe picked out of a couple hundred people that threw their name in a hat the week before. Big drawing the night before the contest at Joes.

Surfing the Queen of the Coast on a single 5'5 felt like butter that day. Ridin' high and dippin' low. Coverups and overandouts. Day was won by a surfer on a 5'6" keel. Flowin' and workin' that point break glass.

Oh I can dream. And if it was I would make the second day of the contest at the other Rincon in Puerto Rico. What a match!

2.3 @ 14 secs from 285 and cooooolllldd

Sunday, January 14, 2007

Back business. Weird to be dry for a week because of a small injury. Never happened before. Feel good this morn. Cold offshores. Good angled swell. Little Sunday roadtrippin'. Let the tide drop. And paddle out.

That first sweet taste of the ocean after you have been away from it is one of the best feelings.

6.1 @ 17 secs from 295 and rising

Monday, January 08, 2007


Old snap from last month’s run of swells. Such a great day this day was. Powerful. New. Beautiful. Majestic. First paddle out at this spot I found a couple years back. Lowkey. Always exciting and exhilarating to jump into a new spot. The locals gonna be nice? The rocks gonna be nice? The kelp gonna be nice? I’m gonna get nice! Nice rotation out there, consistently big thumpy lumps rollin’ through, warm water, warm air, not a concrete structure in sight. Some scary ones that I gladly smiled and watched another head drop into. Hoots and hollerin’ and just good vibes which unfortunately does not happen all the time down here.

I have not got wet in about a week, goin’ fucking nuts, but my back is 90% now. Hit the bottom my last sesh and woke up the next morning to searing pain. The first time I have ever been hurt. Felt weird to feel my body this way. Got a slight glimpse into other people’s pain that have to deal with that every day of their life. Could I do it? I don’t know if I could. Major props to all that are going through something like that which keeps you out of the ocean. You are stronger than me. I am going insane. But at least I see the end near in a couple of days. Others are not as fortunate and I will remember those people when I get to paddle out next time. Don’t take anything or anyone for granted.

2.5 at 15 secs from 310

Thursday, January 04, 2007


Is the word. Snaps from a far away trip two years ago. Daydreamin'. Lips. Sultry barrels. Clean warm waves. Searin' breezes. Heavy locals. Respect. Understanding. Checked out a larger island. November. Beautiful. No beach breaks to be found only volcanic loveliness in this nirvana. Spewin', spittin' waves that gave you a teeth chattering flow. Hang on and go. Splendid spliffs at night with the now friendly heavy locals. Skankin' to the native beat with the local-ettes. You are all one for the rest of the trip. Nods in the lineup followed by some small sets given to me. Don't look back. What a trip that is.

I know that this little surfer dashboard thing on our daily cabbie ride out to the point gave us good vibes and luck. He had horns but we didn't care. Everyone so friendly and nice. Irie.

Oh why don't I travel more.

Oh why don't any of us travel more.

Meanwhile, for now, after the high tide it was very fun this morning. Wish I coulda stayed out all morning. Lovely dawn. New swell.

3.8 @ 15 secs from 300

Monday, January 01, 2007

Comin' alive

A certain rocky spot has been goin' off these past couple weeks. Very under the radar spot although thousands of cars see it everyday. Always suit up in my car and sneak off just to do my part in saving its peaceful soul. 4 guys out yesterday at the neg low tide. Most its seen in a year. Cool heads. Low key rippers. Seriously ripping. Never seen spray thrown so far as I did ast night. Never seen so many up close barrels. Great sunset as it mushed it a bit with the tide pushin'.

Have a date with her again today at 2:18. Neg low of course!

5.0 @ 14secs from 285

UPDATE: Cellphones must have been ringin'. More heads on it this time. Me still alone, kept my trap shut. Still plenty of walls coming through. So fun. No winds in the afternoon have been great. The hour between after the 4 rippers got out until the next 5 surfers got in were bliss. Got any set I wanted, where I wanted. Had time to think and reflect and love my session and not worry if I am going out of order or pissing of some other guy. I am too nice out there sometimes. And sadly you shouldn't be. Guess that is why I always try to find the low key solo spots. Great New Years start!

4.2 @ 14 secs from 295