Schlumpy

Lumpy. Fresh. New swell showin'. Took the day off and enjoyed a West and a Southwest spot. 2 wonderfully different sessions. One had get on goin' down the line beachbreak/jetty waves and the afternoon had lazy-dazed point sliders. Kickout hard before the end closeout and standin' island style pullouts. Quick paddle out in the morn and long shoulder burners in the avro. High line in the dawn to fades in the afternoon. Head high plus to waist high peelers. Direct swell hit to a sheltered coast. Beachie and Points. Clear and Irie. Each session an equal to the other but on different plane. A total of 3 people surfed with both sessions. Sunburnt and Stoked.

It's been a very good Friday in Los Angeles.

4.9 @ 14 secs from 285 and risin'

UPDATE: Where'd the swell go? Came and went. Just like the tides. Amazing. Quickest big swell I have seen in awhile. South winds on it at pre-dawn and meager energy left at the point of our choosin'. Me and a ol' bud. Good to catch up in the gray dawn. Was so stoked to get up this morning too. Now it is raining. Glad I took yesterday off at least and played.

3.1 @ 12 secs from 290 and fallin'