Friday, January 26, 2007


Lumpy. Fresh. New swell showin'. Took the day off and enjoyed a West and a Southwest spot. 2 wonderfully different sessions. One had get on goin' down the line beachbreak/jetty waves and the afternoon had lazy-dazed point sliders. Kickout hard before the end closeout and standin' island style pullouts. Quick paddle out in the morn and long shoulder burners in the avro. High line in the dawn to fades in the afternoon. Head high plus to waist high peelers. Direct swell hit to a sheltered coast. Beachie and Points. Clear and Irie. Each session an equal to the other but on different plane. A total of 3 people surfed with both sessions. Sunburnt and Stoked.

It's been a very good Friday in Los Angeles.

4.9 @ 14 secs from 285 and risin'

UPDATE: Where'd the swell go? Came and went. Just like the tides. Amazing. Quickest big swell I have seen in awhile. South winds on it at pre-dawn and meager energy left at the point of our choosin'. Me and a ol' bud. Good to catch up in the gray dawn. Was so stoked to get up this morning too. Now it is raining. Glad I took yesterday off at least and played.

3.1 @ 12 secs from 290 and fallin'


At 7:48 PM, Blogger nmm said...


Now send some my way...


ps: Fabulous pic!

At 8:39 PM, Blogger Patch said...


At 10:03 PM, Blogger G said...

Hoping for the same up NORTH. Heading out tomorrow to see what the waves have in store.

At 11:04 PM, Blogger J said...

Im dreaming of sunburns.
Im going to be in Arizona for a few months this spring, and hoping to be able to be back in the water by then at some point, and if I can be, I will be making the drive to the coast a few times a week....we will surf together.

At 9:14 AM, Blogger Howard said...

Great blog, really enjoyed it. I've added it to the blog directory at Drift Magazine. Check it out here
If you have any stories you want to share with us, photos, writing or art, please get in touch.

At 11:48 AM, Blogger surferbrat said...

Somehow this is not how I usually picture surfing LA. Beautiful shot, sounds like a good session. Cheers.

At 4:50 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Is that really LA area? Why is the picture titled baja.jpg?

At 11:32 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

DOn;t think he mentioned the pic was from LA...itis titled baja because it is baja.


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