Darling

Yesterday I walked over the stones, up the stony trail, took off my wetsuit, and drove up the 101. Stopped at the local Contest Store on Garden St. Talked for a bit and walked out 1000 bucks poorer.

But I rented out Rincon for the morn. From 6am til 8am. 500 an hour the chap told me. Sold.

So I had a contest the next day. Boards had to be 5 and a half and under. Twin fins, singles, shit throw a big center fin in there. Doesn't matter how many fins, how wide your board, how thick, wings, swallow or stub....just have it under a 5'6". Only rule was that everyone traded boards. Couldn't ride the board you brought.

Locals pissed but so what that they can't surf there for one day, one morning, a couple hours. Would be so fun to see that type of contest. 20 or so lucky souls. Maybe picked out of a couple hundred people that threw their name in a hat the week before. Big drawing the night before the contest at Joes.


Surfing the Queen of the Coast on a single 5'5 felt like butter that day. Ridin' high and dippin' low. Coverups and overandouts. Day was won by a surfer on a 5'6" keel. Flowin' and workin' that point break glass.

Oh I can dream. And if it was I would make the second day of the contest at the other Rincon in Puerto Rico. What a match!



2.3 @ 14 secs from 285 and cooooolllldd