Bird

Is the word. Snaps from a far away trip two years ago. Daydreamin'. Lips. Sultry barrels. Clean warm waves. Searin' breezes. Heavy locals. Respect. Understanding. Checked out a larger island. November. Beautiful. No beach breaks to be found only volcanic loveliness in this nirvana. Spewin', spittin' waves that gave you a teeth chattering flow. Hang on and go. Splendid spliffs at night with the now friendly heavy locals. Skankin' to the native beat with the local-ettes. You are all one for the rest of the trip. Nods in the lineup followed by some small sets given to me. Don't look back. What a trip that is.


I know that this little surfer dashboard thing on our daily cabbie ride out to the point gave us good vibes and luck. He had horns but we didn't care. Everyone so friendly and nice. Irie.


Oh why don't I travel more.

Oh why don't any of us travel more.



Meanwhile, for now, after the high tide it was very fun this morning. Wish I coulda stayed out all morning. Lovely dawn. New swell.


3.8 @ 15 secs from 300