Friday, December 15, 2006

Misty Murky


After all this whale and PV talk, I decided to take advantage of my late Friday morning work call. Up at 4am and off into the murky world. After I pulled up, I'm preppin' my bag and board for the long walk down. I was thinking of the cool article in the newest TSJ on Doc and Granny. Two old South Bay surfers in the 30's. Pics of them actually driving down this windy trail to the paddle out spot, pics of them out alone riding these huge homemade wood plank boards. In their own world. Knowing the feeling of stoke before most. Knowing they found something special.

I hear a couple people around and feel the rumbling of the outside peaks. Can't see shit. And lovin' it. Lovely deep fog paddle out over the inside rollers. Thought I was out far enough but still had to paddle more. Some bombs coming through. In my own little foggy and misty box as I only see some other heads when I paddle back out after my waves. My pick of waves. Fun drops. Powerful thick rollers. Mostly lefts into the abyss.

End of the session the fog starts to lift and I can make out the majestic cliffs, the sun trying to burn through, the green trees watching over me. Catch the longer right of the day and milk her for all that it is worth and still a long paddle back in. Refusing to wear booties, especially at spots like these, are tough on my feet but they are used to it. Feet know it will be over soon. Come away with only a couple small foot cuts. Worth every scratch. Beautiful, amazing morning. Not a concrete structure in sight.

Pic if from a perfect December day in 2004. Offshore and 80 degrees.

4.7 @ 13 secs from 305

3 Comments:

At 2:00 PM, Blogger Patch said...

I avoid the booties as well and I have the reefy feet to show for it. Solitude surfing in-between swell days is special.

 
At 4:28 PM, Anonymous rob70 said...

Hey... deep fog might be the way to surf Laduna bay and get away without a rock ding in your head!

 
At 5:34 PM, Blogger nmm said...

aahhhh........paddling out amidst the fog. ....finding sweets under the tree instead of a lump of coal.

 

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